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Does the rubber part have any metal in it or just hard rubber? Has any one ever used the disc type? I have used these on side mount before and worked very well just curious. This is going in a 1950 AD truck 235 engine
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Last edited by Peggy M; 01/15/2024 8:09 PM. Reason: added more info to the title
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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If you're talking the rectangular rubber pad, yes there are metal sleeves embedded in the rubber. Take a look at the Service Manual Page 6-13. It shows a pretty clear cross-section of the front motor mount assembly.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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Thanks I have a shop manual but it's pretty vague. I'll look again tonight. Just not the type of shop manual I'm used to. Pretty thin. I had one from gm for a Corvette and it was one year only and three times as thick.

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Originally Posted by breezy
Does the rubber part have any metal in it or just hard rubber? Has any one ever used the disc type? I have used these on side mount before and worked very well just curious. This is going in a 1950 AD truck 235 engine
Where would you put those mounts on a 1950 truck with a 235?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Here's a link to that shop manual page.
LINK


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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CARL Haven't really came up with a plan just yet. Was thinking a metal plate bolted to the center holes then put these at the outer holes. Hope you can picture that.

Last edited by breezy; 01/16/2024 1:57 AM.
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Originally Posted by klhansen
Here's a link to that shop manual page.
LINK
That's the same picture as in my manual. From that I see metal bushings with a washer embedded in the rubber. So that tells me what I wanted to know. Thanks

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If in a desperate mode.....how about a piece of steel belted tire tread?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
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Originally Posted by cmayna
If in a desperate mode.....how about a piece of steel belted tire tread?
Not desperate. I just don't care for the factory design.

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Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
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Originally Posted by breezy
Not desperate. I just don't care for the factory design.

Do you have a particular concern about it?

Looking at it from a modern engineering perspective, I don't see any particular concerns. Looking at it from a historical standpoint they seem to have lasted and functioned well.


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The only real issue with the original design was getting oil soaked, and GM tried to address that with the cover. After 70+ years, the rubber in mine turned to mush from the leaking seal.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Originally Posted by klhansen
The only real issue with the original design was getting oil soaked, and GM tried to address that with the cover. After 70+ years, the rubber in mine turned to mush from the leaking seal.
Exactly what I'm trying to get away from. Thank you for agreeing

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I didn't agree that the original design was defective, just that the location is in the path of leakage, and like anything will eventually fail. Mine failed manly from neglect.
The only way you can avoid the front mount eventually getting oil soaked is to move it away from directly underneath the crankshaft. I don't see how you'd be able to do that without some creative mucking around.
A better approach would be to fix the front seal leakage. That's what I did.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Originally Posted by klhansen
I didn't agree that the original design was defective, just that the location is in the path of leakage, and like anything will eventually fail. Mine failed manly from neglect.
The only way you can avoid the front mount eventually getting oil soaked is to move it away from directly underneath the crankshaft. I don't see how you'd be able to do that without some creative mucking around.
A better approach would be to fix the front seal leakage. That's what I did.
Doesn't appear to be leaking now. Was a pull out motor. But had to drill holes for front mount and was just thinking about doing something different.

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Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
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I would challenge you to find a rubber mount that will last longer than those 70 years in any design/location.

You are certainly welcome to change/redesign anything you want on your truck, but your efforts might be better spent in other areas.


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I'm with breezy about the front mount being less than perfect.
I find it to be far from perfect. It has too many parts, is too complex, and is prone to becoming oil soaked. One should not need a feeler gauge to set up a front motor mount (see The Manual).
The easiest long-term solution may just be a replacement oil proof pad which is durable and has the correct density for proper cushioning.


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Carl you are thinking like myself. I'm wanting to get the rubber away from the center a least. I'm also going to use round bailer strap for the cushion. I've used it in the past and I can stack it up for adjustments. I'll post pictures when I figure it out
Was just wanting opinions and if anyone had done something different than original.

Last edited by breezy; 01/17/2024 1:05 AM.
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Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator)
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What is bailer strap?

The biggest thing is to make certain that as the compliant part ages and eventually fails that the engine can't get loose and become a safety issue.

The original mount used the overlapping metal plates for that. Typical SBC mounts have a different geometrt of overlapping metal plate. The popular aftermarket pin mounts have bolts that go through metal eyes.

Post pics of what you build, others have discussed custom replacements and would be interested in your design.


From the Rocky Mountains?
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1958 Task Force Truck
"Frank" gets a new lease on life
Follow in the DITY Gallery
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The Ballad of Enkidu
The Saga in the DITY Gallery ~ and the story continues
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I call it strap. Also called a belt. It's very tough and is reinforced. Will have a bolt run in the middle so if or when it would degrade the bolt will still hold the engine.
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Conveyor belt material


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Originally Posted by Otto Skorzeny
Conveyor belt material
I'd say that would be the same


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