The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Upgrading from Huck brakes to Bendix brakes

I have sourced a front and rear axle with the newer bendix style brakes so I am starting the tear down on the original 1949 Chevy 3100 huck brakes and will be upgrading it. This is my first time doing this swap so I will be posting as I go and will surely be having questions for the more experienced fellas out there.

If the axles are complete, you will have a pretty easy go at this. Problems arise when trying to put Bendix brake parts on Huck axles.

I’ve got the front bendix brakes swapped over to my axle. The swap was pretty straight forward. Only modification were drilling the two bottom holes in the spindles and the arms out to 1/2” from 7/16”. Just waiting on new drums and a few studs for the front now.

The fronts were pretty simple but I think I the rear is going to be pretty tricky swapping over. The backing plate is riveted on the rear axle and it almost looks like the axle shafts may need to come out? I was going to tear into it and see how it comes apart and if the brakes will indeed swap over. But it looks like I may just need to swap the whole rearend?

When my front yard oak tree came down 30+ years ago and crushed the '53, I went and bought a local '50. One of the plans to do was to put both trucks up on jacks and swap the entire drive line which included front and rear axles with their brakes. Very nice having bendix brakes on the '50.

The axle shafts will need to come out.

Can you just swap the entire rear end assembly axle, brakes, and all?

I would check the condition of the rear gears for starters.The rear axles will come out easily .The rear cover is taken off and the bolt that holds the pin ,then the pin block and spider gears will come out the axles then just need a push in to get the clip out then the axle will pull out .I have taken the rivets off of those backing plates and taken the backing plates off . I don’t know if bolts are satisfactory to put backing plates back on but the plates do come off .the one I have is sitting in the corner if you need any imfo I can look at it further . I would be concerned about the bushings inside the tube if the tube was leaking oil down to the brakes.

Later axles have the backing plate bolted on, so I would not be concerned about replacing the rivets.

Look closely at the two axles. The original is a torque tube drive axle is mounted on pivoting spring perches where the open drive 1955 1st series spring perches are different and won't allow for direct swap of the entire axle assembly. Unless of course you decide to change to an open drive and get rid of the torque tube which causes multiple other changes to make it work. You had said before you weren't interested in doing that.

As mentioned by Fibonachu, drilling out the rivets and reinstalling with bolts may be your easiest solution? Others that have tackled this will chime in to share their experiences I think.

Just connected the posts .If the rear axle is from a 55 first series truck it would be a 390 ratio rather than a 411 ratio like the torque tube .I don’t know if the spring perches will line up maybe someone will know on here ..The Sm420 transmission will need the rear cover we’re the ball is attached replaced with the matching yoke and speedo gears should be close to swap.Then a driveshaft and u joints to make the truck open driveline..This may be a option to compare with just replacing the backing plates as once you take the torque tube brake drums off you may see that the axle seals are leaking and question is it from the bushing and seal in the tube that will require more work .

Kevin, you can almost be assured that if the axle seals are leaking, it is because of the bushing and seal up at the front end of the torque tube are worn out and leaking and letting the tranny grease come down to the rearend.

Yes that is why it will be good to open the cover and take a good look to see if what condition everything is before starting .