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#1531536 01/03/2024 6:07 PM
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 34
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 34
I have a 1955 second series pickup. The truth of the matter is, that it is a parts truck and nothing fits. I purchased some years back new stock type weather stripping and even though it is in the truck is does not allow the door to sit properly in the frame. I was wondering if there is a non stock type weather stripping that might work better for my application or should I cut back the stock weather stripping to allow the door to close properly. I have installed new door hinges, new door latches and new lock plates. After all this time and hours upon hours of work my passenger side door still looks like it is not closed. Help please.

Pete

Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,719
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,719
None of the seals sold today are the correct thickness or the correct foam density. The closest one to the right size is from The Filling Station, I believe. See this thread.

Last edited by Peggy M; 01/03/2024 7:54 PM.

1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,016
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,016
Restoration Specialties has a ton of different weatherstrip products. I'm sure they could provide about whatever you need. Helpful folks there. I inquired with them about windlace quite a while back and called today to order some things and they remembered sending me samples.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Pete O #1531793 01/05/2024 11:47 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Posts: 10,272
Remove the door striker and adjust the door at the hinges until the door closes properly. Removing the striker will get the latch out of the equation, simplifying the fitment procedure.
Moving the door rearward may give the seal room to compress enough along the front edge to allow the door to close in the door opening.
If that does not completely solve the problem, moving the leading edge of the door 1/16" proud of the front fender may be enough to get enough additional space for the seal to compress properly to close the door.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 190
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'Bolter
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Joined: Feb 2023
Posts: 190
Sounds like my next step on my 62 C10. . ^^^^^^^

I moved the hinges out on both doors and it made a little difference. Moving them back a smidge might help too .. 👍👍

Last edited by fattboyzz; 01/06/2024 3:25 AM.

1962 C10 with a 235 6cyl -- all of the drive train seems to be original.
Some of this story is in the Side Lot
Some people like a new truck. I liked the old ones.

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