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#1531415 01/02/2024 9:05 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 485
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 485
Hey Everybody, quick question, but first the facts: 1953 chevy 3100, 235 with 3 wire alternator. I know the connections that I need to make. What I can't figure out is the best way to temporarily route the wire that connects the bat stud on the alternator to the starter. My real limiting factor is that the wire is only 8 feet long. According to the FAM (if I'm reading it correctly), the original wiring ran from the generator to the driver side, down the length of the driver side, up the firewall to the ammeter. From the ammeter, a 2nd wire ran across the firewall and down to the starter. This routing appears to be longer that 8 feet. I'm looking for suggestions (and pics) of how others ran their alternator wires. ATM, the front sheet metal is still in the shed. So I can run a temporary connection while I continue to work on the truck and make a final connection after reinstalling the front sheet metal. If necessary, I can gather the supplies and make a longer wire, but if possible, I'd prefer to use what I've got. Thanks!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,767
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,767
The original wiring ran from the generator (not alternator) to the ARM terminal on the regulator mounted on the firewall. Then another wire went from the regulator BAT terminal to the ammeter. If you're running an alternator with an original wire harness, splice the ARM and BAT wires together at the regulator area (solder the connection) and insulate it. Eliminate the FLD wire from the regulator to the generator or incorporate it into the idiot light/excitation circuit of the alternator. Trying to use an original equipment wiring diagram with an alternator is about as confusing as comparing apples to pomegranates!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Sep 2010
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 485
My apologies...the wire harness is new and is for 12 volts. My only use of the FAM in this instance is to see what route the original wires took.


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,028
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,028
The original wiring between generator and starter (power source) was in three pieces, with the regulator and ammeter in between. It's less than 8 feet from the generator to the ammeter, and about 4 feet from the ammeter to the starter. There's no reason you couldn't use a single terminal to connect the separate wires together.
Attachments
Terminal stud.jpg (4.07 KB, 71 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Kevin, what a great idea! Thanks!


Mike
1953 3100
The Gray Ghost
My Project journal

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