The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Throttle Cable and Knob

They say that the only dumb questionis the one that is not asked. So...
What is the purpose of tthe throttle cable and knoob on the dash? I took mine out during rewiring and I don't seem to miss it. Am I missing something??

called a hand throttle, it's the original "cruise control" for foot free driving! also works for warm ups on cold winter days and as throttle for runnin things off the PTO that you also don't have most folks nowadays just use it to fill that hole in the dash

Bill

its best for use with things like winch or towing rig, theres one in my 53 6400 with bed and hoist but i dont find it too useful with that because you need more control over speed of bed lifting than simply running one RPM.

i disconnected mine, plus some doofus had the choke/idle speed cam on backwards on the side of the 235 monocarb, doh !

no wonder it would stumble and die at stops and stick most the time after depressing pedal..

at least thats all that was wrong with the truck

i think im gonna rmeove bed and hoist system and sell truck as running driving chassic and just like it came off assembly line in 53. want to find newer faster 1.5 or 2 ton truck, want ot have towing one also some day, and/or car hauler one..


good luck with your throttle control

I thought it was because your right foot is occupied pushing the starter button and with the hand throttle you can help it get started.

I was always lead to believe that the T meant TURBO

There's a load of lumber in the back, I'm at a red light on a 45 degree incline. When my feet are occupied with the clutch/brake two-step, I find a hand throttle and granny low is a better alternative than using the car behind me as a wheelblock. :p

Tony M is right. The '51 Owner's Manual says, "It is generally advisable to pull the hand throttle control out slightly when starting the engine, especially if the engine has a tendency to stall a time or two after starting."

I tried re-hookin mine up and found that it did stick in the open position. When I fired it up one morning it red-lined immediately. It's amazing how s-l-o-w the brain works when it can't comprehend the unexpected. I thought my motor was coming out the hood before all my pistons were firing and I turned off the key.
Before reattaching the cable, I thought it would be a great idea to boost the RPM's a bit on warm-up so I wouldn't have to keep my foot on the pedal. Is there a right way and a wrong way to hook it up so that it does behave?

If you can't hold your vehicle on a grade properly you need to take some more driving lessons. IMO

Rattletrap,

I assume your question is serious?

The throttle cable should be attached in such a manner that there is no affect on idle. Set the idle and mixture (after proper warm-up) to the appropriate RPMs (450-750 depending on your engine and your pleasure). Then set the throttle cable stop at the carburetor (fully "closed", meaning throttle cable pushed all the way in towards the dash).

Tim

Tony, are you now giving lessons in "proper" driving techiniques for disabled drivers who use hand controls? Care to tell me what I'm doing wrong? I've never rolled back into tailgaters using the throttle knob to get moving, but since it's "improper" maybe you have a better approach?

Sorry Hedgehog, I didn't notice your disabled plaque. I am from Europe where they make you take driving lessons. No lessons, no license. I remember the "taking off on a grade" was about lesson 3. That is all I was referring to.


Edit: BTW, the proper technique on really steep grades is to use the emergency brake in combination with the clutch and throttle. (Mine doesn't even work yet)

To paraphrase a few famous expressions: whatever revs your engines. If you got it, use it.

It replaces that obnoxious brick if you're trying to fake your own death. :p

When we were kids my cousin would feed by putting the truck in granny, setting the throttle then giong from the cab to the bed to bust open and scatter bales. Freaked me out the first time I went out to feed with him.

An easy way to start out from a steep grade with a stovebolt is to shut the engine off, put it in granny low, and start it in gear when you want to go, assuming you have a good battery.

I usually just let the clutch out enough to grab and hold the vehicle still before I let off the brake and hit the gas, or heel-toe the brake and gas pedal. I don't roll at all.

Never could get my throttle cable to keep the rpm's up. When I'd pull it out of the dash, the carb linkage return spring would pull it back in. Oh well....

Geezer, my throttle knob also snaps back to idle when I let it go (I prefer it that way, since I actually use it in place of the gas pedal). Many moons ago I made a pilgrimage to Sears Point and enrolled in a race training course which taught left foot threshhold braking while powering out of corners. Little did I know that I would be using that technique to drive a Stovebolt, but when you've got a bum right leg you do whatever is necessary.

Josiah, I accidentally hit the starter with the truck in 1st gear once. It jumped so hard I thought I was going to blow up the U-joints. I don't think I'll make a habit of starting it in gear.

cletis,
Your story about the cousin using the T cable and granny gear to feed the critters is way too cool. Maybe I should do that on a busy street to listen for wheel noises

Somebody who has this rig please post a picture of it! I want to add this to my '68 C-10.

Pal, I imagine you would have to build a rig for your '68. Here's a picture of a '53. The cable is not installed in this one so you have to use imagination. The cable housing goes down through and clamps with the clamp you can barely see behind and below the choke cable housing. The cable goes through the hole where the cotter pin is on this one. Then a little chilibob is clamped on the end so that the rod from the foot pedal slides up the cable when you use it. When you use the throttle cable the chilibob on the cable pulls the rod up.
Savvy? I tried to find the real name of the chilibob in my parts books but no luck.
[img]http://www.jbhardin-gallery.com/trucks/brkt2.jpg[/img]

I think I may be able to rig that. Danke!

I rigged one before. I took a small 1/2 inch saddle for metal conduit. Get the variety that is held in with one screw. Bend the part that normally holds the conduit smaller to now fit the cable. It worked great until MT got me the real thing.