The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Anti-rattle (or anti-flutter) for AD hood

Saw mention of this on a youtube video and it sounded like a good idea. So I got some 3M NVH dampening material Link. It needs a double barrel caulking gun and mixing nozzle (included with the material). The hood skin on one side of my hood was contacting the reinforcing bow and would have rattled pretty badly. I used some wedges that I had to make the gap between the skin and reinforcing bow.

The stuff applied pretty easily with the gun (borrowed from a friend), then smoothed off with a finger.

I plan on using the same stuff between the cab back and stiffening supports where there used to be webbing.

Hello Kevin,
I am working on a 54 GMC and was planning on applying the same stuff on my hood and cab. I am pretty sure we seen the same video, but I did not have any remnants of the material on my hood to suggest that it was originally applied at the factory. I like the idea, how did it work out for you? Did it negatively affect the hood fit at all? I am just wondering why I didnt find any, and if there is a reason why it was omitted. Truck looks nice in the picts.

Mine had (on one side of the central seam) a strip of the same jute/horsehair/tar mixture pads GM and others used for sound deadening. It was glued on but the side which was there was barely hanging on so I removed it back around 1977. I figure the other side had fallen out sometime before it got it. The piece that was there was about maybe 20 inches by 3 inches. I just used some common self-adhesive foam rubber and cut pieces (about 3/8 inch thick, 1 inch wide and about 3 inches long) to keep the two pieces apart. I removed them a few months ago getting ready to paint the hood. Probably will replace them with the same stuff...got it at a hardware store in a 1 inch wide roll.

The hoods originally came with a pad on both sides like Jon said. I went with the caulking type product as it would have been tough to get a self adhesive product in there. I have not installed my hood yet, but don't expect that the material I used will be an issue with fit.

I don’t use anything in that gap. I just make sure that the rear of the hood sits firmly on the cowl seal.
I have worked on hoods which had a horrible dent line all the way across the hood above where that material goes. Probably from not having the back of the hood firmly down against the cowl seal, subsequently causing a continuous hammering effect from the vibrating hood hitting the material in that gap.
Early to late ‘60s car trunk lids and hoods suffered this same fate as material between the sheet metal and the support metal underneath shrunk with age. You can actually see the exact X pattern of the lower support metal on the top of the hood/trunk.

Hood and door gaps
Finally after 18 long years I've got round to paint and body on my '50,I used single pack urethane bond to secure the interior hood brace to the inner skin,I applied it in the same manner as the O/P,it turned out great if I say so myself.