The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Serious axle swap pictures, with remote mounted hydroboost too

I have uploaded 29 new pictures that tell the complete story of fitting, modifying, and installing bigger axles with disc brakes in a ford f350.
Here is the folder if you would like to see them all http://rides.webshots.com/album/558384968mIheUE

I took basically the same approach to this project as I did my 52 1 ton, and you can use the ideas for your own projects.

Quick links to some interesting stuff including:
A remote mounted hydrobooster, as it would not fit under the hood.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2598576140080251109wpZrNY

A simple way of remounting the springs to a narrowed front axle.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2318732160080251109QCWwdV

Details and pictures of actually cutting and welding a front axle. Start with this picture http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2574929210080251109qyVUgy

Some interesting twisted drive shaft pictures, thanks to a 6V53 twin turbo Detroit Diesel, and a good sized load.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2332236450080251109Umosmq

Let the questions begin-
Grigg

You are amazing. I love the way the axle looks when you finished gringing and welding it. It looks new like it came in that size.

You have talent and a real imagination. Nice job!

Nice job Grigg that shop truck sure had the squats picking that 6V-53. What dose the lettering on the door say? Can't read it in the picture. You know if those notches bother you, you could always throw a bead at each end of you adapter plates that would add some triangulation support to the ends of the axle. Anyway nice job.

The lettering the door says "POS".
I thought about welding the ends of the adapter plates, but decided it would be a bad idea. I think that things may flex to much, and the weld would crack.
What I would do is grind just a little off of the axle where the plate almost meets it. So the gap would be parallel, and it would be about 5/16" Then I would weld a piece of key stock, or anything really, that would just fill the gap. then if the axle did try to bend it would be supported buy the plates. But it really does not bother me.

Grigg

Grigg,

After all that work, why don't you swap out the F*rd body for a Chev or GMC body?

I hope that the original frame is up to carrying around all that weight!

Lane

I did use a GMC steering wheel and horn button, that has to help some. The sheet metal on it is rust free, so no real reason to change it. I too think that he frame could be heavier for what the truck is now, but it shows no signs of weakness, it is double framed for a good portion, that helps.

I have always said I will drive anything that runs. But after working on this and some other fords I really do prefer to play with GM stuff.

I bought this truck for the adventure of driving it home from CA. As well as to learn from how it was put together / converted. Also to play with a Detroit, as my real project, the 48 with a 4-53T is still a few years away from driving. I for the most part enjoyed swapping the axles and related goodies, and learned a lot from doing it.

This truck was never intended to be a permanent member of the family, just something to play with for a little while and come out even or, if I am lucky, make a little money.

I am about done with it. I still need to have the bed liner sprayed on the cab floor, and replace the sleeper seal. Have some more steam cleaning done so I can find and stop the last few dribbles, and that's it.

I will drive it to the ATHS truck show in Colorado Springs in about two weeks, and hopefully I'll have to find a different ride home.

Grigg

The Detroit is GM and with the wheel in it, it just looks like a ford.

Grigg,
You are the master inovator. McGiver on wheels.

I went to the junk yards with a completely open mind looking for suitable parts.
The goal was to improve the truck in the most reliable, simple, and cheapest way possible, in about that order. I had no brand preference, price and suitability were the deciding factors.

Looking back I find it interesting that of all new used parts I ended up with, choosing from literally 100's of possible donors, that all but one part came from a ford.
The vast majority of the parts came from GMC trucks, and a few from Freightliner and KW trucks.
I did find a suitable steering shaft u-joint from a ford f700, but that's all I found useful from all the fords I looked at.

Perhaps GM vehicles truly are a little better than fords, at least the individual parts are more useful.

Grigg

Grigg,

You have definitely cobbled together an interesting rig. Looks like it'll be pretty strong as well. If you sell it at the show let us know how much you got for it.

I wish I knew what time you'd be driving through the St. Louis area, I'd park on the highway just so I could hear you drive by.

"The sheet metal on it is rust free"

What about that great big hole in the floor board? Do you think RhinoLiner will fix that?

What hole?
It has a few extra holes cut in the floor that I will repair, but no rust...
Grigg

Easy Dave I think you may have rubbed a sore spot there. He has pictures posted of the in side of the cab. I didn't see any hole. Now my 64 that has floor board holes.

Very nice axle narrowing.....

very nice work.

A lot of people talk about doing, you did it. Talk is cheap work is time.

Grigg, my hat is off to you!
Rick