The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 decode help please

Block casting 3738307
Head casting 3836848
CON4. 137. <That doesn't jive??
Stamped FI 025 J < Can't find anything on this either
So 58-60 235 from what I can find using casting #s

breezy, Can you take and post pictures of the codes on the engine itself you have provided? The block casting# and stamped Serial Number sequence seems to indicate a 1958 235. I think the block Serial# decodes as:

F = Flint assembly plant
1025 = October 25th (the letter I was used as the numeral 1 in serial number stampings)
J = 3100-3800 regular production

This is from the 1958 GM heritage Data file.

The head casting number may be a misread. If you clean and recheck, I think you will find it to read - 3836848. Agreed that the block casting date as you have listed doesn't make sense. I would also recommend further cleaning and rechecking. You may find the first character to be an L instead of a 1, which I think decodes to October = L, 3rd = 3, 1957 = 7. That late in the year would probably correlate to a 1958 model year engine.

Maybe Mike B can come along and confirm or correct what I have suggested.

Sorry head number is 848. I edited that.
The I is what I couldn't find. Using that instead of a 1 might be correct. I will get a picture. Thanks

Picture of numbers

I think you nailed it Dan!

Here's what I can add...

The block casting number 8378307 span 1958-62.

The 235 engine code suffix "J" was used from 1957-62

I see the block date code based on the pictures breezy supplied after you posted as I 3 7 (September 3, 1957) which like you mentioned above, more than likely had it end up in a 1958 model year truck.

Mike B

Thanks for the help fellas. Was just needing to know in case I needed parts. Would this be a solid lifter motor more than likely?

Yes...

Mike B

Thanks Mike

Pretty excited about this today. Had time to make sure it wasn't stuck. It's not yeah. Turns over with jump box yeah.
Checked compression. 115 to 130 she should be a runner.
Hopefully has good oil pressure and no knocking or strange noises.

Can someone please explain how I can check oil pressure on this motor. Has no oil filter set up. Holes are plugged. Which hole do I need to connect oil pressure gauge to? And while on the subject how do you route the oil filter hook up? Would this motor be a full volume oil system? Thanks

Unless you see a screw on filter or a the fitting for one, it's going to use the canister type filter. On the driver side toward the back of the block, just above the oil pan is where the oil pressure gauge tube attaches. You could thread in a temporary gauge.

Chuck a long hexagonal rod of appropriate size into an electric drill and insert it into the oil pump drive gear in the distributor hole and spin it .

No screw on filter
Has plugs where the lines hook up.
I just didn't know which one was pressure and which was return.

Here is a photo of a members oil gauge on the engine .Phak1 from his project journal

breezy, For your question on "oil filters and hose routing", go give this Engine Oil Filter Tech Tip a thorough read. Be sure to look at the same year group for the engine you have and check way down towards the bottom. That's where you will find links to original oil filter and hose installation instructions that will give you just what you need.

Interesting read. Any idea what a restriction fitting is? Mentions it on the later motors.

breezy, IIRC, the restriction fitting mentioned in the instructions is the original "reducer fitting" for the manual oil pressure gauge line connection to the block oil port - arrow in the 1st pic below. That has to be removed to allow for the oil line "T" connector to be installed into the oil port in the block - 2nd pic below. That "T" allows for connecting the oil line to filter housing and to reconnect the dash mounted mechanical oil pressure gauge line. Clear as mud???