The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Valve cover gasket

Quick question. Do I need sealant when replacing my valve cover gasket? Just received a new cork gasket from LMC. A
If so, which sealant is correct? Thanks.

You need to tell what engine you are working with & whether it has a stamped valve cover or cast aluminum.

George

Oh. Ok. It’s a 235 and it’s stamped. Thanks George.

I like to use the yellow 3M trim cement, the stuff we called "Gorilla Snot" around the dirt tracks, to attach the cork gasket to the cylinder head, and spread a thin coat of wheel bearing grease on top. That allows the valve cover to be removed and replaced during a lash adjustment without damaging the gasket, and the gasket forms a shallow dam to prevent oil leaks down the sides of the engine when the cover is off for any reason. It takes a little effort to remove the old gasket the next time it's replaced, but it usually survives several on/off procedures before that happens. Be sure to use spreader bars at the bolt holes to prevent compressing the gasket in a narrow area with the bolts.
Jerry

Could be one of these things where 50 people will give you different thoughts about gasket sealer. I like Permatex non-hardening or Permatex Aviation sealer but in about 10 seconds I think somebody will arrive with a different idea. And that's okay. Pretty much any sealer is ok with the exception of RTV or Indian Head shellac. At any rate clean the surface of the head really well, apply sealer to the head gasket mating surface and the gasket (fairly thin layer), and attach the gasket to the head. Then straighten the valve cover as well as you possibly can. And if you really, truly want it not to leak any longer find some 3/16" inch thick aluminum and make yourself some spreaders using a cardstock template you make from your valve cover...Tech Tip is coming on this.

Thanks all. And especially the photo of the spreader bars.

Need some quick advice here. Just opened the valve cover to find lots of sludge. Oil, dirt, bits of the old gasket. Scooping out most of the solids gently with a screw driver, which is working well. Is there anything I can do to clean out the more liquid sludge or is it ok to just leave it? Thought about wd40 but don’t want to do it with mout advice.

I don’t think you’re likely to do any harm by scrubbing with some sort of petroleum based solvent. Just make sure the crankcase gets drained afterwards. If I was going after that kind of stuff, I’d probably use gasoline or diesel. Just don’t get brush bristles into the bottom end.

Is the engine a runner? I have successfully cleaned sludge with a procedure recommended by some here. Involves running the engine at a fast idle with a crankcase that is full of oil, and then adding a couple quarts of diesel. If interested, can provide some more detail.

Yes it runs. Just noticed oil on the engine and frame so went to change the gasket. I was surprised by the amount of gunk in there. Got it all cleaned out with the screw driver and my fingers. Gasoline is probably best.

That sludge isn't terribly bad- - - -you can still see the rocker arms! I'd suggest pulling the oil pan drain plug and using a pump-type garden sprayer filled with Diesel fuel to hose the top end down. I also use a mixture of engine oil and Diesel to run the engine, about 1/3 Diesel and 2/3 oil, to flush out the bottom end like a washing machine. Overfill the crankcase to the point the crankshaft and connecting rods dip into and splash the solvent/oil mix around. Run the engine at fast idle for 15-20 minutes and the splash will clean the bottom end in places you'd never be able to reach with a brush.

DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE WITH THE SOLVENT ONBOARD- - - -NO LOAD RUNNING ONLY!

Be aware that an old, clean engine will probably become a leaky engine. Be prepared to replace gaskets and seals after the cleanup. Using gasoline for cleaning solvent turns the engine into a bomb- - - -don't do it!
Jerry

Do you have an estimate of how much oil/solvent you need to overfill to this point on a stovebolt? One or two quarts extra?

I usually add 3 quarts of Diesel to a full fill of inexpensive oil. Each engine is different, but it takes an "oil" level a couple of inches above the full mark on the dipstick. Get the liquid level to the point the connecting rods can splash it around like an agitator in a washing machine. Don't get the level above the centerline of the crankshaft, obviously! Six connecting rods at 1500 RPM equals 9K "scrubs" per minute- - - -try to do that with a brush! "Common sense" seems to be a very uncommon commodity these days!
Jerry

Wow. That’s a lot. Way beyond my pay grade for now but sounds like a good one for down the road. I installed the cork gasket, the old one was rubber and very brittle. Running the engine now and no leaks. Cleaned out most of the sludge and solids by hand and that should do for now. Time for coffee and doughnuts before I get any more ideas.

Thanks guys.

Any good solvents to clean the oil off the engine?

Trisodium Phosphate powder (concrete cleaner) mixed with water and applied with a garden sprayer. It's available at any big box hardware store. Soak it well, let the mixture sit a few minutes, and use a pressure washer to rinse. Be prepared to touch up the paint- - - -any loose paint will come off with the grease.
Jerry

Cool. Thanks Jerry.

By the way, adding a PCV will slow the rate at which the sludge returns. Your sludge might be more of a function of some ancient, non-detergent oil. But any sort of blow-by will starting building a new layer of gummy crap on the rocker assembly…even with a modern oil.

I expect that there is a ton of sludge coating the bottom of the oil pan, judging by what is on the rocker arms. I'd do HRL's diesel warshout deal for good measure. If you don't, all of that sludge that has been in the oil pan will find its way up to the rocker arms again.

Thanks Carl. If I do the warshout, the sludge dissolves? Maybe better to drop the pan, scrape it out and replace the gasket?

With 2 quarts of diesel on top of the 5 quarts of oil already in it, it should dissolve all of the sludge that matters and should come right out through the drain plug hole. It will be very dark.

You will want to drain it hot, as soon as you shut it off so anything you dissolved stays in suspension while you drain it.

Liking the diesel wash idea as the best and easiest way to remove the sludge. Sounds easy for a novice like me and I have to change the oil anyway.

Then after you drain it, you can pour it on your brush pile burn it!

Ha! Don’t have many brush piles in Brooklyn. Better to take it down to the docks and burn an abandoned car.