The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Hardware and Bolt Kits

Just a heads up for those looking at the expensive bolt and hardware kits for your restoration.

The good: well organized, labeled, and comprehensive.

The bad: where fine thread captured nuts or threaded holes are located such as radiator supports, front clip, brackets, fenders, dash and cowls…. They don’t work. The provided bolts, nuts, screws are coarse thread.

Your choice is the less than ideal re-tap, less than ideal force fit the bolts, drill out and buy other bolts, purchase a number of fine thread machine bolts or removed captured nuts and install correct threaded nuts.

Thinking I would have these on hand I bought the kit a couple years ago and promptly put it on the shelf. The return policy has probably run its course - thinking the statue (humor) of limitations has expired.

The ugly: these pre-packaged kits labeled for 41-46 trucks are not cheap. So far the majority of these are going into the unused bin.

This is my experience… perhaps yours will be better.

Tom

I'd have to agree with you on many of your points. Convenience is one reason to buy a kit
I usually go that way only if they're unique. I bought a grille assembly kit and have clutch head bolts for my rear fenders coming, which aren't generally available at any local hardware, or my go-to online source for hardware, McMaster-Carr.
I find it interesting that you found fine thread captured nuts or threaded holes. There don't seem to be many of those at all on my AD. If you're talking about clip nuts, many of those such as the lower grille apron are for sheet metal screws.

Kevin this is on a 46 … perhaps GM changed up after the war with the AD series.

Picture shows fender - fine threads are found on captured nuts located on the side cab wall where the lower rear fender attaches, radiator support , cowl brackets, where splash curtains and fender attach on radiator support, V brace, captured nuts for lower grille assembly, main brace under fender.

I attached the picture to help those working on a Pre-war truck and because people like pictures.

Gotcha, Tom.

You might give some feedback to the vendor. Maybe they can fix their hardware kit for the next guy who buys one.

There was no reason to use fine treads on a truck. But I know they are used. A little extra strength was not needed. Possibly on a heavy door but the numbers don't support that. No lack of thickness for threads. No fine adjustments needed. Captive nuts usually have some available movement. Captive nuts are used for that reason sometimes. I would hope the vendor used a parts manual/list for sizing the kit.
The proper way to recover from a bad kit is to go to a hardware store and buy the quantities needed with no shipping. Glad you had a stash to draw from.
Personally I would never, and have never, bought a kit. I save the hardware I take off, I also have a stash and I go to the store occasionally.. It's pretty easy to figure size, pitch, length. (thread gage, another bolt or nut to try and calipers).

At that time in history, quality control for civilian trucks was not a priority. Hardware was probably scarce. GM got what they could get and used it. May not match the released parts list. Would be interesting to check.

Yeah, I get it. This truck came in chunks and pieces, completely disassembled without hardware. Since this acquisition I have saved every salvageable nut and bolt from other projects….and put them in the electric walnut shell shaker to clean and re-use. Lock and flat washers get chucked.

Tom, I feel your frustration. I believe you are correct with your supposition that GM changed up after the war. I have 47 and 48 GMC trucks. I got a screaming deal on a 46 Chevy panel truck. The previous owner took the front clip off and pulled the head in 1975 and had it rebuilt. Never put the head back on and spent the next 50 years collecting very good used and NOS parts to restore the truck. Then he died and the estate wanted nothing to do with it. I thought, cool, I can put this back together and have a nice panel. Every fastener was different from everything I had. It seemed like nothing crossed over. All the fasteners were no longer with the truck and it was just no fun. I sold the truck. I sympathize with you and admire your tenacity to conquer the challenge.

Rich

I think some of the early engines used 1/2-12 head bolts instead of the more standard 1/2-13. What the heck?
Then there's the clutch head screws.

BTW, I had forgotten that AD door hinge bolts are 3/8 fine thread. I think those are the only fine threads on them. OOPS, no wait, some of the brake rods are also fine thread. Hunting down a lock nut for the clevis usually comes up with the wrong thread pitch.

Thanks Rich. You have it right. The entire front clip, cowl, and radiator support assembly are 1/4-28 , 5/16-24 or fine thread 3/8 bolts. I’ll use my hardware kit bolts on the 50 Suburban or 48 one ton. They won’t go to waste.

It is what it is…somewhat of a challenge but not fatal. The challenge is figuring out the correct assembly sequence, aligning the sheetmetal to the structural components, and doing this holding up one end or the other and jury rigging supports and clamps to start threading bolts straight in without stripping them. I’m a one man one hand show. Grateful for the pain.

And this is nothing really out of the ordinary for 80 some year old trucks - I can say that every bolt has been a fight. It will make me appreciate the end result even more.

Tom, your brake drum is beautiful.