Good day - preparing to resume my winter project but I have been stumped for awhile about this dilemma.
1946 GMC 1/2 ton short bed. Side curtains (inner fenders) mounted to cab and correctly mounted (but not fully tight but loose to allow for fitting and alignment) to original GMC radiator support. (Cab correctly located and mounted on frame too)
Bolting the cab, inner fenders, and radiator support assembly together “sets the distance” from the cab cowl to radiator support. Therefore moving either the cab or the radiator support in or out is not do-able.
The problem is… the top V brace is 1 1/2” too long or the distance from the top radiator support to the cowl is approximately 1 1/2” too short. The threaded ends protrude too far inside the cab firewall when the brace is mounted to the two holes on top of the radiator support. I purchased another brace - and yet have the same issue.
Questions: were there two lengths of inner fenders or V braces? I can’t imagine GM would have incurred the additional costs and manufactured and stamped two lengths of inner fenders or braces. Or, are GMC inner fenders longer than perhaps Chevy inner fenders? Again, I don’t see why GM would manufacture two sets for each brand…but stranger things have happened in this world.
I prefer not to heat, bend, and or cut and weld this brace. Seems like something is off… but I am not picking up what that is. Advice and insight needed. I can take measurements if that will help solve this.
Anyone with a 41-46 GMC willing to take measurements off their truck to help me align this assembly?
Tom
Ps. Pictures show the threaded end too far inside cab. Green truck shows correct placement. Last two pictures show placement of inner fenders to cab and radiator support and the distance I need to make up and allow the brace to align with the holes.
Last edited by tom moore; 10/21/20236:39 AM. Reason: edited title for more detail
Just a note to say I've moved your question over to the Paint and Body Shop as I think your issue with body and front clip arrangement/alignment better fits into that forum.
More to come soon I am sure as folks get signed in this morning and see your question!
PS - I will do a bit of "parts" searching as I seem to recall reading there where two different length "radiator support assemblies" for the 1941-46 trucks.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I have 41 gmc and 41 chevys, I will get all the measurements you need but I can't get th3m today, tomorrow is a possibility. I will check in tomorrow and if someone else has not helped you yet I will get the measurements for you. Dave
1941 Chevy "First rebuild - complete!" Follow the story in the DITY 1941 GMC resting peacefully 1946/1947 Chevy Street rod on s10 frame complete 1945 GMC panel truck in line for restoration 1941 Plymouth stock complete 1941 GMC COE in restoration process Read his Project Journal 1941 Chevy Coe uncertain future resting now
I just measured the one I have from a Chevy 46 3/4T panel. Tape measure hooked on to the threaded end right at the tip, I get 36 1/8" to the center of the bolt hole in the front. Hope that helps a little.
1947.2 GMC 1/2T SWB panel 1947.2 GMC 1/2T long bed 1948 GMC 1/2T short bed
I’ll check it out. Thanks! It appears that these braces are 36 1/8” +/-“. That eliminates one variable.
After some some self study and a fresh look I decided to modify my assembly approach. I removed the rear bolts holding the inner fenders to the cowl. Bolted on the V Brace and pushed the top radiator out (forward) and attached the brace at the cab cowl and radiator support.
The upper holes at the rear of the inner fenders that attach to the cab were misaligned and off about 3/4” but better than 1 1/2” minus; I gained on the problem at least a little more. I shimmed up the cab from the frame. I now gained about 1” of distance. I need to elongate the upper inner fender holes about 3/8” where they attach to the cab.
Interesting, that the bottom holes lined up just fine and I was able to position and tighten the bolts. The upper holes require tweaking and more than likely I will cut a slot to fit the bolt and use a large fender washer and possibly tack it to the inner fender. The purpose of the upper bolt appears to hold the upper inner fender tight to the cab bracket. The V brace holds th3 front to back distance tight…so cutting a slot will be sufficient. Of course, this discrepancy may rear its ugly head again when I assemble the hood assembly and align it to the fenders and front grill. Time will tell.
This should get me in the ballpark.
This process is typical for fitting 80 year old sheetmetal that came from various sources. In short; tweak here, shim there, drill out this, lift up that, tweak some more and it should eventually come together. Maybe. LOL.
Picture shows rear bolt holes of the inner fender before lifting and shimming cab up from frame. As you can see I still need to make up about 3/8” distance or less for the holes to align.
Second picture: As good as it gets for now. Top rear inner fender holes “adjusted” to fit. V brace is installed and bottom rear inner fender holes lined up just right without needing the tweaking.
