I'm going through this old 62 c10 and I would like to replace all the parts in the distributor but I'm having trouble finding the coil wire terminal?? not sure if that is the correct term for it but its the little part that the coil wire bolts to. Is it possible to still get these?
They're on Ebay- - - -two different types. It's called an insulator block. I just bought four of them last week. Your 62 will need the first one I linked. I make my own insulators from round nylon bar stock and small carriage bolts for about 1/10 of the cost of the factory parts.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Lots of tractors of the era used Delco distributors. I have one of these on my truck. Perfect fit. Delco insulator
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
The 2403 distributor used a slightly different point/coil wire stud than the versions in the links. Those versions were used on earlier distributors and featured nuts on both ends. The stud used on the 2403 units did not have a nut on the inside to secure the point strap and condenser wire. It was a swedged end with a notch. To install the points, You had to loosen the ring slot nut on the outside, install the point strap and condenser wire, tighten the ring slot, then you could attach the coil wire, deflector plate, nut and washer. It was a better arrangement in terms of simplicity, that and no nut to get loose on the inside of the distributor.
That being said, you could certainly use the linked insulator stud assemblies if you had a really damaged later model stud.
The aftermarket tool industry use to sell special drivers with the ring slot driver on one side and a nut driver on the other. They turn up on eBay once in a while. These studs got beat up pretty good because a lot o people did not know to loosen the ring slot nut and instead yanked out the points and condenser and then forced the new pieces in so not uncommon to see them damaged.
If you look at the last photo, that is a distributor I rebuilt last year or so and you can see the stud, point strap and condenser arrangement as installed.
Since we're talking distributors, the 216 I just pulled has what seems to be a ground wire to the block (circled in pic). Is that good or bad or is it even needed? Engine always ran great so I've never removed it.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
That's probably someone's attempt to compensate for a poor ground at the vacuum advance unit, which is normally how the distributor housing gets its ground for the points. Look closely at most advance units and you'll see a small copper piece that maintains a good electrical circuit as the housing moves in relation to the engine block. The one year distributor that used a polarity reversing switch (1947, maybe?) would need to have the breaker plate grounded if the polarity switch was bypassed. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
... but having it grounded like that won't hurt anything. Like a belt and suspenders.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
If you choose to keep the ground wire there, use a piece of highly flexible wire, like the kind used for voltmeter test leads. The distributor housing on a stovebolt is moving constantly from the action of the vacuum advance, and a regular wire will get metal fatigue and break strands pretty quickly. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
