The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 won't idle with Pertronix ignitor

I installed the pertronix ignitor into my 235 and the flamethrower coil and I checked my + terminal on coil and was getting 12.52 volts with the key on. So I removed the points and installed the pertronix ignitor unit with the black wire going to coil - terminal and red wire going to coil + terminal. After installation, the engine would only start if I gave it 1/2 to full throttle. As soon as I tried to idle it, the engine died. When I started with 1/2 throttle it was running really rough, like barely running. I removed the pertronix and put my points back in and it runs fine.

Has anyone experienced this with pertronix ignitor and know what might be the cause?

Please don’t take offense, some have a strong opinion about PerTronix conversions. My suggestion is to get back with the seller. Sometimes the parts are just bad. If that isn’t the problem they should be able to help figure it out.

Good Luck, RonR

Pertronix got a bad rap, but most problems I saw where related to wrong installation/parts.
1. use the coil they recommend
2. use the wires they recommend
3. biggest common mistake: never put the positiv cable on the positive side of the coil (which will burn out the module after it run just fine for a while) It really needs to be directly on something from a keyed source. Never use the pink resistance wire from the ignition.
4. get a Ignitor III (don't even think about I or II)
5. Some tachometers mess with the system. If you run into trouble, disconnect it first and see if that is the source.

Frank

You didn't say anything about setting ignition timing after installing the Pertronics unit. Did you?

There are two types of Pertronix systems- - - -the ones that have failed, and the ones that are going to soon.

What Bill Hanlon said. Do that.
I certainly would really like for Pertronix, or some other manufacturer to create a points replacement product which is idiotproof. When the Pertronix unit does work, it is as good as a fresh set of properly adjusted points. Not better, but just as good. They do not suffer from the natural wear and unavoidable erosion of any points contacts (because they don't have any), and there is no issue with the difficulty of finding reliable condensers these days.
What Pertronix has a history of, is reliability issues for a number of shortfalls. Number one is that they self destruct if the ignition is left on without the engine running. This will fry the module and melt the coil. I do not know if the Pertronix III has resolved this issue. Number two is, that if your unit fails on the road, you won't likely be able to find a FLAPS nearby who carries one for you to install.
Carrying a set of points in the glove box seems like any easy back up plan, but it is not. You will need all of the original wires to go from the coil to the distributor, a good condenser, the special insulator for the distributor wire, the ballast resistor to keep your points from frying, and the wires associated with the ballast resistor, and a coil designed for points.

I would concur with moparguy; if you really want the electronic marvel, contact either the vendor who sold you the conversion or pertronix themselves.

We deal with a LOT of "carburetor problems" that turn out to be pertronix conversions. So many that now the first question I ask when someone has a "carburetor problem" is have you put in a pertronix? If the answer is yes, then my recommendation is install points and condenser as a test. If it fixes the issue then you know the issue. If not, call me back and we can talk about the carburetor. Total waste of time to attempt to debug a "carburetor problem" if a pertronix is on the engine.

What I have learned, is those installed on an engine with a generator are MUCCCCCHHHHH more prone to failure, than those installed on an engine with an alternator.

I won't try to talk you out of the electronics, but if you do install one, upgrade to an alternator.

Good luck.

Jon

As far as I can remember, that was already solved on the Pertronix II.


There are some things, that points can't provide though;

Adaptive dwell throughout the entire RPM range
More available energy between 3000 and 5000 RPM, and 2 times more available plug voltage.
Compensates for inherent electronic delay by adjusting the spark timing throughout the entire RPM range.
Synchronized peak current and spark timing
Startup sensing and more energy for quicker, easier starting

Pertronix claimed it wasn't an issue on the original, then they claimed they fixed it on the V2, then they claimed they fixed it on the V3.

There were a lot of reported failures on the V2 (thus why they claimed to fix it for the V3). Maybe it is actually fixed now, but I would not hold my breath.

There are a lot of advantages to using a (comparatively) low voltage/current trigger, but doing a full HEI conversion is a more reliable solution.

If you want to keep the stock look, that does limit your options. Good luck whatever solution you choose.

It's a fairly simple matter to install the GM HEI trigger system, pickup coil and reluctor, into a stock distributor housing, and mount the module somewhere out of sight (even under the dash) on a finned aluminum heat sink. The only giveaway that it's not an OEM ignition system is two wires going to the distributor housing instead of one. I'd suggest using the "tall cap" distributor from a 12 volt stovebolt engine, as the higher voltage developed by the high output coil can "flash over" to the distributor housing if a plug wire open circuits or falls off the plug with the shorter height cap and rotor used on the 6V engines.
Jerry