So moving on from a transmission rebuild last week, I ordered an Okie bushing and removal tool. The torque tube doesn't appear to look the same as others I've seen on the internet. The pics are driveshaft from my '41 pickup. The engine is a '55, transmission '40, so I should've expected this. Does this only require a seal and not bushing removal? The ones I've seen have a front and rear bushing but, from what I can tell, it looks like a longer bushing which the removal tool cannot...remove.
That looks like the short shaft that goes between the tranny and the open driveshaft on a truck that's bigger than a 1/2 ton. I'm seeing a carrier bearing mount on the bottom end in your first picture. Here's a page from the 1941 Truck Info Kit showing the driveshaft info. What size is your truck? A 3/4 ton would have the intermediate shaft just behind the transmission with another u-joint then either a torque tube or open driveshaft. I THINK there would indeed be a different arrangement for the oakie bushing, which would go back behind the carrier bearing
Last edited by klhansen; 10/14/202310:28 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I wondered if this driveshaft was for a ¾ ton since all the ones I see aren’t like this. The truck *is* a ½ ton, though. The ball joint is welded to torque tube and the ones I’ve seen aren’t. There’s the transmission, torque tube, carrier bearing, u-joint, and open driveshaft. The entire drivetrain has probably been replaced throughout its 82 years. Anyway, there was not a bushing like the ones shown on the internet and no oil seal at all in the torque tube when I removed it.
How long is that driveshaft/tube in your pictures? It might also help us help you if you post a picture or two showing the entire driveline.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
It's been pointed out to me that GMC produced a 1/2 ton "long bed" truck that had a 2-piece driveshaft. What I posted was for Chevy trucks, where only 3/4 ton and heavier trucks had 2-piece driveshafts. If your truck is a GMC, that might help explain what's going on.
[on edit] I have looked thru your previous posts and can't ever tell what exactly you're working on. If you add a signature line in your profile, it will show up with all your posts, and you won't have to tell everyone what you're working on. Click on your username on the upper right and select "Edit Profile" then fill in the box that says signature. Be sure to scroll down to the bottom and click "Save Changes".
Last edited by klhansen; 10/15/20238:53 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Can you take and post additional pictures of your entire driveshaft unit, plus the bell assembly at the rear of the transmission?
I have a 1929-46 Chevy Master Parts Catalog and none of the diagrams for truck or car show a "welded" torque tube bell. It's supposed to be slid onto the main tube and held in place by a threaded collar with packing material to prevent leaks and allow for removal of the bell.
If there is a bearing (and possibly a seal behind the bearing) inside that tube, originally they would be locked into the main tube surrounding the drive shaft by a pin through the side of the shaft housing tube that is hidden underneath that bell assembly.
It may be the only way to proceed further is to grind off that weld to proceed further with bearing/seal replacement???
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Dan, This figure from that catalog seems to indicate that the 3/4 ton front housing is a single piece with a bell on each end. The front end fitting into the tranny and the rear into a bell swivel at the carrier bearing. Not a real clear figure, but I would think that if it were 2 pieces, there would be two part number callouts.
fastjet135 really does need to come back with more pictures so we can figure this out for him.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I keep thinking since he says he is working on a 1/2 Ton that those pictures in the parts book would apply. But with your mention of a "3/4 ton front housing" and relooking at his current pictures, we really need more pictures of all the drive line bits and pieces to help understand what he's got.
How about it fastjet135?
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Dan, Looking at his pictures, it appears that the driveshaft/housing that he's showing is roughly 36" long, judging by it being about workbench height when standing on end. So that would indicate to me it's an intermediate shaft, and the only one that looks to be 1 piece is the one in the figure I posted. I agree with you on the
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.