So I'm a little confused. Read through the tech tip to use a 12 boot generator for upgrade. Everything makes sense except the 12 volt coil. If you install a ballast in line to coil does that not reduce the power? I would think you would retain your 6 volt coil. I've also read most coils are 6 volt anyway. Some just have a ballast from the factory. I'm assuming those are 12 volt systems. I have everything from a 57 so it would be pretty easy except for the fuel gauge. Thanks for any advice.
I have used 6 volt coils on 12 volts with the resister but it is better to use a12 volt coil designed for use with the resister. If the resistance in the windings are not correct it may burn the points or cause a weak spark. If you have it all from the 57 it will be great.
George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
"12 volt" coils designed for use with a resistor actually need about 9.5 volts to operate properly, not the 7.5V that a "6 volt" coil sees when a 6V generator is running against a fully charged battery. Use the right part for the setup- - - -. Jerry
Last edited by Rusty Rod; 11/27/20236:20 PM.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Midyear 55-up systems were all 12 volt, with resistors. The same coil was used all the way to the mid-1970s when HEI was introduced. Early 1970s ignition systems used a nickel-chrome resistance wire about 10 feet long between the ignition switch and the coil that doubled back on itself inside the wiring harness instead of a ceramic resistor- - - -same coil works from 55 to the mid-70s.
Buy one of Jon G's improved condensers, instead of the offshore made junk that's usually bad right out of the box. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Kinda confused me there. So I need a ceramic resistor? And can I use the condenser from the 57? Sorry you were posting while I typed. Ok resistor is needed.
Also use a 55-up foot start switch with the small side terminal on it to bypass the resistor during starting. That puts full battery voltage to the coil to assure a hot spark with the load of the starter on the battery. Rock Auto sells the correct switch, but they call it a "solenoid" for some reason!
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
A wire from the small terminal goes to the + terminal of the coil, downstream of the resistor. When the starter is engaged, full battery voltage is supplied to the coil, bypassing the resistor. The load of the starter running drops battery voltage down to a bit over 9 volts- - - -which is what the coil was designed to run. Sneaky, huh?
A word of caution- - - -with the bypass wire connected, the engine can start and run with the ignition switch turned off when the foot switch is engaged, unless a different ignition switch with an "IGN 2" terminal is installed. That's a wiring diagram change that was incorporated into the 12V electrical system that most folks don't know about. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
It's all original- - - -beginning with the mid year 1955 swap to a 12V electrical system. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I recommended using Jon G's condenser several posts back. No matter what brand name is on the box, all the condensers available these days are coming from the same bunch of 3rd. world slave labor sweatshops, and most of them are junk.
"Buy one of Jon G's improved condensers, instead of the offshore made junk that's usually bad right out of the box."
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Sorry to bother you but does this look correct ? Can I use the original wire going to amp meter from voltage regulator? And if so which wire is it? Battery wire I'm assuming.
A word of caution- - - -with the bypass wire connected, the engine can start and run with the ignition switch turned off when the foot switch is engaged, unless a different ignition switch with an "IGN 2" terminal is installed. That's a wiring diagram change that was incorporated into the 12V electrical system that most folks don't know about. Jerry
To clarify: IF I read the caution correctly...........The ign 1 and ign 2 were used with electromagnetic solenoids and a "R" terminal. You have a foot switch with side terminal. That terminal will be dead when you lift your foot. Motor may fire but will die when foot is lifted. Your original ignition switch is OK.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Send me a PM with your email address. I'll be glad to draw up a more professional-looking circuit diagram that will be easier to follow. That one is technically correct, but it leaves a lot of room to make some expensive mistakes. Yes, the "BAT" wire at the regulator goes to the downstream side of the alternator. It's possible to connect the "ARM" wire and the BAT wire together and use the original generator wiring harness with your alternator conversion, but I'd suggest running a new 8 gauge wire from the alternator output stud to the ammeter instead.
What's a "food" switch? I've seen engines run enough on the bypass circuit during a compression test to amputate fingers with the fan belt. Blood also makes parts rust.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
This diagram incorporates the original 1950 wiring diagram somewhat and mixes in alternator wiring. There are, of course, many more wires in the truck but these are the ones you are asking about. Don't know what all has been added or upgraded to your wiring or truck. You may want to add more fuses and/or use terminal blocks for some wiring. This assumes you have a Delco 10si alternator and want to wire as "3 wire" configuration. No horn relay used on 1950. Can't think of anything from a 57 that won't "work" but advise what 57 parts you are using. This is the basic hook-up shown for reference. Use your magnify feature to read.
A wiring diagram is not meant to show a person exactly how each wire is attached. Sometimes there are too many wires on a terminal or it is better for routing to do this or that. You can splice, use a terminal block or a terminal on a component to join wires electrically. However it is important to accomplish the exact circuits per the diagram. Be sure you get the same circuit flow as the diagram. Wire sizes are determined per load.
To exclude a "run on" condition reported by some, if you are using the original ignition switch, advise how many terminals it has and then I will suggest some wiring....describe whatever ignition switch you have. It's good you are asking questions if not sure about wiring. Don't try to figure out how to use or incorporate old wiring circuits. You can snip both ends off of something and use the actual wire if it's in good condition. Some wires are just relocated simply. Colors do not matter. Nothing is hard to trace on a good old AD truck.
You need to look at the tech tip section, under "12V conversion but with alternator" and you will see the basics we are discussing.. Read that, it's a good overview of what all you need to do.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
You keep referring to a condenser while working on the coil. Is this condenser the one mounted inside the dist. with the ign. points or is it mounted on the coil bracket? If it is mounted on the coil bracket it is a radio suppressor & is not needed. The one inside the dist. works with the ign. system. If it fails thats were you set.
George
Last edited by Wrenchbender Ret.; 11/28/20234:31 PM.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
You keep referring to a condenser while working on the coil. Is this condenser the one mounted inside the dist. with the ign. points or is it mounted on the coil bracket? If it is mounted on the coil bracket it is a radio suppressor & is not needed. The one inside the dist. works with the ign. system. If it fails thats were you set.
George
Originally Posted by bartamos
This diagram incorporates the original 1950 wiring diagram somewhat and mixes in alternator wiring. There are, of course, many more wires in the truck but these are the ones you are asking about. Don't know what all has been added or upgraded to your wiring or truck. You may want to add more fuses and/or use terminal blocks for some wiring. This assumes you have a Delco 10si alternator and want to wire as "3 wire" configuration. No horn relay used on 1950. Can't think of anything from a 57 that won't "work" but advise what 57 parts you are using. This is the basic hook-up shown for reference. Use your magnify feature to read.
A wiring diagram is not meant to show a person exactly how each wire is attached. Sometimes there are too many wires on a terminal or it is better for routing to do this or that. You can splice, use a terminal block or a terminal on a component to join wires electrically. However it is important to accomplish the exact circuits per the diagram. Be sure you get the same circuit flow as the diagram. Wire sizes are determined per load.
To exclude a "run on" condition reported by some, if you are using the original ignition switch, advise how many terminals it has and then I will suggest some wiring....describe whatever ignition switch you have. It's good you are asking questions if not sure about wiring. Don't try to figure out how to use or incorporate old wiring circuits. You can snip both ends off of something and use the actual wire if it's in good condition. Some wires are just relocated simply. Colors do not matter. Nothing is hard to trace on a good old AD truck.
You need to look at the tech tip section, under "12V conversion but with alternator" and you will see the basics we are discussing.. Read that, it's a good overview of what all you need to do.
Plan was to use 12 volt generator from 57. After further research I have decided to just go with an alternator. Thanks for all the help I will review the technical tips.
