So finally got some free time coming up and also have a replacement vehicle to run around in, so finally can do the rope seal in the back of my 216 motor, it leaks super bad.
Going the path of engine removal to do the job.
I have never stripped a stovebolt down before but I am an ex aircraft mechanic, making an assumption just need a sump gasket with the rear rope seal or is there possibly something else that needs replacing at the same time
I recommend that you go ahead and replace the front seal while you are at it. Front Seal, Oil pan gasket, rear seal. If you get the gasket kit go ahead and replace valve cover gasket.
Since you are pulling the engine take a good look at the freeeze plugs, if any are correded badly or seeping, nows the time to address it.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
There is some controversary regarding the new rope seals that are currently sold. The original rope seals, and the aftermarket rope seals sold at least through the late 70s and maybe even through the middle 1980s, were all a graphite asbestos affair. Industry had been using this type of material as the packing for all kinds of industrial bearings and pumps, as well as decades of use by the auto industry, because the material worked at sealing and reducing leaks.
The new rope seals are a fiberglass graphite affair and thus lack the crush and sealing qualities of the asbestos based seals. There have been more then a few complaints regarding the new seals leaking after just a short time in use. So before you replace the seal, you will have to decide whether its a better call to scrounge around for a nos engine gasket set from back in the day to get an asbestos seal, and hope it is still flexible enough to use, or go with the new seals on the chance you may have to do the job over if the new seal fails.
I have had really good luck with Best Gasket rope seals. Comes as a kit tools and great instructions. They make a really good neoprene seal for 235 but not for 216 I think 🤔.
Correct. The neoprene seal entered service for the 1956 model year. The rear main cap is machined differently on the 56-63 motors for the neoprene seal. So while you can use a rope seal on a 56 and up motors,, in addition to the neoprene seal, you cannot use a neoprene seal in the 55 and earlier motors.
Hi Steve, Also please be certain to check the surface of the crankshaft where it will contact the rope seal. Often that is corroded, pitted, etc. Moisture is harbored naturally by this type of seal and also so are acids, etc present in the oil. If it shows deep or large pits, you may want to also install a Speedi-Sleeve over it to restore the original smooth surface. But please note: The Speedi-Sleeve will add some extra size to the crank sealing area so you may need to study that to see if you have enough clearance. I can promise you if you replace the seal and your crank sealing surface looks like the image I've attached the new seal will fail...maybe rapidly. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Your 216 will be the same as the discussed 235 as far as lifting placement/method suggestions go.
Lots of good suggestions for you to pick and choose from.
Just remember - Safety First!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
You can just remove the valve cover and use the two studs you just removed the acorn nuts from. As long as you don't put any side load on them, it'll lift it just fine. If your load leveler has hooks on each end, use a piece of angle iron bolted to the rocker towers with another couple holes for the hooks. See the pic of my leveler. Works fine with the tranny attached too.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Just recieved the new best gasket rope seal today, it has a small pin they recommend drilling the cap and fitting to retain the rope seal, never seen that before
