Buy a flea market flat blade screwdriver about 8 inches long, remove the handle (most can be driven off the blade with a hammer) and chuck the blade into a 1/2" drill motor. You might need to grind the business end of the blade a little to resemble the flattened end of the distributor shaft. Spin the pump clockwise until oil pressure builds up and oil starts to dribble from the weep holes in the rocker arms. Keep a firm grip on the drill- - - -when the oil galleries pressurize there will be a sudden, heavy torque on it. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Just a note that I have moved your post to the Engine Shop forum for the best on-topic further discussion and help.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Many years ago I made a primer tool from a spare distributor. Grind off the head of the pin on the gear, drive the pin out, remove the gear and gut the rest of the distributor until you have just the housing and the shaft. Install the shaft, connect your drill to the top of the shaft and away you go. Little more stable than the screwdriver method, which definitely works, but I just like a dedicated tool.
I have the old pump, I want to make a tool to drop off at mechanics. How long should it be to drop in once he removes the distributor. The tool is a priming tool but I had to grind down because it was too fat. Now it fits well into the old pump. The tip is perfect but I am wondering if it is long enough. Thanks once again.
Use the distributor as a reference- - - - -the priming shaft needs to be at least as long as the distance from the end of the shaft to the top of the distributor housing. It could be three feet long and it would achieve the same result. I usually grind a 3-cornered flat area on the drive end to keep the drill chuck from slipping under a torque load.
"Common sense is pretty uncommon these days" ! I don't know who said that, but he was right! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I don't have the distributor. That's rebuilt and back in the engine at mechanics. May just go with you first recommendation and use the foot long screw driver.
I just measured a distributor- - - - -it's 9 inches from the top of the shaft where the rotor mounts to the tip of the oil pump drive tang. The distance from the vacuum advance bracket (top of the block) to the pump drive is 5 inches, which puts the rotor 4 inches above the block. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
