Are cam gears on new distributors (for a 235) compatible with a cast iron camshaft(E293)? Found an old diagram (attached) that makes me a bit nervous about using the gear on my new distributor. It has NO groove, which according to the diagram, is a no-no for a cast iron cam.
Have a decent single groove gear (Type D) I can swap onto the distributor, just not sure I can stake it on there solid enough.
Last edited by Skooter; 10/12/202312:39 AM.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
If you are talking about the new chinesium distributors on eBay and Amazon, who knows. I cannot imagine the gears on those distributors are being marked like GM marked them. If you are talking about a nos distributor, what is the part number.
As for peening a solid pin sufficiently to keep the gear tight, you are quite correct. Instead, use a roll pin for a Ford distributor, 3/16 X 3/4. The Ford pin is the right length, the Delco pin called out in the Delco part books are the same length as the solid pins for peening and are thus too long so take a pass. Use the Ford pins. Has to be for a distributor though, hardened, and then safety wire it.
Unless you're planning to replace the electronic parts on that offshore distributor with OEM Delco-Remy stuff, you're playing Russian Roulette. Swap out the pickup coil and module with original pieces, and you have a much better chance of the thing actually doing the job you want. I'd choose to use a bronze gear made for a 250 inline six from one of the race parts places like JEGS or Summit. Foreign-made modules don't have the same internal electronics as an original- - - -they eliminate the expensive stuff like a current limiter. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
As for peening a solid pin sufficiently to keep the gear tight, you are quite correct. Instead, use a roll pin for a Ford distributor, 3/16 X 3/4. Has to be for a distributor, hardened. It’s the correct length, and then safety wire it.
This is how I do mine.
I like the safety wire. May do just that. Quick search turns up tons of pins for that.
Jerry I put a set of NOS AC Delco points in it, as well as Jon's new improved condenser. But the gear...the bronze does sound good. Given my lack of 250 inline six knowledge I may have to come back here and ask about which gear before I order it.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
OK- - - -ignore all the above. I thought you were using an offshore made big cap HEI. I use them, but I replace the electronics with OEM parts. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Run the wire through the hollow center of the pin and twist the ends tightly together. It does no good, but it makes people feel better. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry and I disagree on the safety wire aspect. The original solid pins were essentially peened over on both sides so there was absolutely no chance the pin could work itself out. It could get loose, but near impossible to actually work itself out unless a failure in the pin itself. The roll pin on the other hand does not enjoy the positive retention that the peening over process provided for the solid pins. It is possible for that pin to work itself out over time if certain circumstances exist, like a very slightly wallowed out shaft hole due to a loose gear working the hole a bit, or a pin with a tolerance less then ideal for the shaft hole, or any number of other ways. These are of course extreme, rare and unlikely, but they are possibilities just the same.
Jim "Bubba" Linder of Bubba's Ignition, who did my rebuilding until he retired, and who posted over at the HAMB for many years as "GMC Bubba", was a tremendous technician and knew what he was doing with these old distributors. He safety wired all of my rebuilds and when I told him I was going to buy a Sun Machine and all the parts, supplies and literature to rebuild my own upon his retirement, he walked me through his rebuild process, and recommended that I safety wire all my pins as a good belt and suspender practice. I have run some of my 235 and 261 motors up as high as 6000 rpm at the track with no issues. Why take the chance on a catastrophic failure, no matter how remote. The correct pliers for correctly installing the safety wire are under $20 at Amazon and even comes with a little bit of stainless wire, or $10 at harbor freight for the 6 inch versions, $15 for the 9 inch version.
