The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Those "worthless" offshore fuel pumps- - - -

I'm hearing from a few people who have had chronic pump failures with "new" third world fuel pumps that they often pass a bench test for pressure and volume, but they won't work when installed on an engine. I wonder if somebody with a milling machine could set up one of them and whittle a little material off the mounting flange (maybe 3/32" or so) to move the pump lever a little closer to the camshaft? It might be worth a try. Comments?
Jerry

I've long thought the "throw" of the arm wasn't long enough. What else explains one not pumping a single drop of fuel when it's right out of the box.

It took me 3 pumps on a GMC 228 to get one that would contact the pump lobe. When installing, if the pump arm doesn't have pressure against the lobe at it's lowest point of contact it' a no pump situation. Some pump arms have a lot of excessive play before it starts moving the diaphragm.

Joe

I'm thinking of an alternative approach- - - -an aluminum adapter block and a short pushrod to fit a small block Chevy V8 fuel pump to a stovebolt engine block. Does the fuel pump really care what engine it's bolted onto, as long as the camshaft lobe pushes the lever arm the right distance?
Jerry

I dunno Jerry, the computer at Autozone says it won't fit. And everyone knows that computers make everything better

"I consider "It won't fit" to be a personal challenge. "Hold my beer and watch this!"
LOL
Jerry

It seems that a huge number of fuel pumps across a wide range of makes and models share the same, two-hole mounting base. My AD, Cadillac, Ford trucks, and Mustang all use the same fuel pump mounting gasket.

If one could obtain the specifications for the original pump's arm reach and travel, and volume per squirt, one could search for another pump with similar specifications and create a spacer to make up the difference in reach.

As much as I like mechanical pumps, I'd find an electric pump first.

When I was looking for a fuel pump for my 62 235 every auto store I went to said they had one, then handed me one for a small block chevy and said it would fit.

Jerry - had not had this complaint from customers.

What we are hearing is "the *&^%$# carburetor floods!

Tell them before buying a carb kit to put a fuel pressure gauge right at the carburetor. You might be amazed at how many find 10~12 psi from brand new name brand pumps!

(Opinion) these new offshore fuel pumps are a problem to fix a problem that didn't previously exist.

There are plenty of used original made-in-USA pumps which can be rebuilt, and USA-rebuilding kits are readily available. One vendor of which I am aware that sell these is the Antique Auto Parts Cellar in the Boston area. There are probably others, but I have known and dealt with the owner of AAPC since about two weeks after Noah landed the Ark, and I trust him.

As far as the electric pumps are concerned: Electric fuel pumps and older vehicles

And to be perfectly honest, this is a situation of "do as I suggest, not as I do"

ALL three of my collector vehicles run electric pumps of 7.5~10 psi with no regulation; BUT I have modified the carburetors to accept this pressure!

Jon

I am on my third fuel pump. The last 2 are Carter. I confirmed they were manufactured in China. It might cost a little more but your best option is to have an original rebuilt.

Antique Auto Parts Cellar is Then and Now Auto Parts. The same business operates under both names.

They do re-vulcanizing of motor mounts , brake system rebuilding, water pump rebuilding, and sell many other parts and services in addition to fuel pump rebuilding that we see on this forum frequently.

Interesting! What do you do to the carburetor to make it able to use the higher pressure? The electric pump seems to be a pretty good cure all for the fuel pump problem. Thanks!

I guess its a crap shoot. I just put a new one on my 235, works like a champ.
Knock on wood!

The amount of fuel pressure a carburetor can accept is defined by:

(1) The buoyancy of the float
(2) The placement of the float pin
(3) The orifice size of the fuel valve seat

Carter used at least different volume (read buoyancy) floats in the various AFB four-barrel carbs (505 different).

By using the float with the largest volume, and a slightly smaller than stock (I cut my own) fuel valve orifice, I have no pressure issues.

Jon

It seems that most people don't know how to, or care about testing a fuel pump to see what pressure, volume, and vacuum it actually produces. They just expect it to work perfectly out of the box , and then they go searching for exotic fixes when things don't work. Sun Electric Company had a slogan on all their equipment- - - -"We test, not guess!" That's just as important now as back when every good shop had a variety of Sun testers on the floor.
Jerry

Thank you for that clear explanation. Recently, I cleaned up a Holley 4 barrel carb. I bought this carb brand new many years ago. When I removed the float bowls I was surprised to see that the floats were different. The primary has a plastic float and the secondary has a foam float. Valves look interchangeable.