I want to replace my fuel gauge in my 1950 chevy 3100. Is it possible to just remove the fuel gauge? If so can somebody please furnish step by step directions. If not can somebody furnish step by step directions on removal of the cluster containing fuel sending gauge. Thank you
1950 chevy shortbed 3100, 216 with a 3 on the tree.
You'll have to remove the whole instrument cluster, because in order to get the fuel gauge out of the cluster, the bezel and glass have to come off, and that can't come out with the cluster installed. The cluster is held in by 4 nuts from the back of the dash. And because the temperature gauge has a tube leading from the gauge to the sensing bulb mounted in the engine head, you'll need to drain the coolant down a bit to remove the bulb and thread the tubing thru the firewall. And you'll need to disconnect the oil pressure tubing from the back of the oil pressure gauge. Then all the wiring connections have to be removed from the cluster (amp gauge and fuel gauge, and pop the two bulb sockets out of the cluster. THEN you can remove the cluster from the back of the dash.
Here's a picture of the cluster with the temperature gauge and ammeter removed, and one of the back of the cluster with just the fuel gauge remaining.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
First order of business is to remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Lots of exposed electrical connections behind the dash. The 4 nuts are a challenge to get to for removal. It can be done while sitting in the drivers seat, but you will be flying blind. Once you remove the nuts, you push the gauge inwards and turn the cluster sideways to access the compression fitting nut at the oil gauge, and the nuts for the gas gauge wires, and the ammeter wires. Be careful while fishing the temperature tube/bulb through the firewall hole. You don't want to damage it. They are pricey.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Good points Carl, especially about the battery cable. I do that as a matter of habit whenever working on electrical stuff, so neglected to mention that. And taking the ground cable loose first prevents you from welding your wrench to something if it happens to hit surrounding sheet metal as would happen with the positive cable. Any time you need to work under the dash of ANY vehicle, it's a giant pain.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
