The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 6V Alternator instead of gen?

Is is ok to use one of these models for now, I will rebuild original down the road. Any need to use regulator if it is built into the alternator? Thanks for advice.

Should work.

You'll need a #10 or larger wire running from the alternator output post to the wire on the "bat" connection on the voltage regulator. Assuming it is a one wire alternator that should be all the wiring you need. Check back with us if it is a 3 wire alternator.

You will need to modify your generator mount to accept the much narrower mounting arrangement on the alternator. You may be able to do that with just spacers and/or washers to position the alternator fore and aft. You will likely need to provide a different adjustment bracket as well.

Make sure you get an alternator with a pulley that matches your belt. The two pictures you posted use different sizes of belts.

PowerGen makes an AC generator that looks like the original Delco DC generator and has the same mounting points. Of course they're a couple hundred dollars more than the one in your picture.

That sounds better. Maybe at 30A I would be better off with paying for the quality of the Alternator. Thanks for input.

If all you're planning to do is drive on and off a trailer at a car show, that PowerGen alternator might be a good choice. Don't count on it to do a good job of keeping the battery charged or lasting a long time in a daily driver situation. The physical shape of a generator-looking alternator is all wrong for doing a good job of battery charging and/or powering high current draw accessories.
Jerry

Friends of mine who have been drawn into (I could have said tricked into) buying this tell me: (a) they don't cool well at all so (b) in a few months they burn up and leave you stranded and (c) they're incredibly overpriced. In the process of burning up they sound like a you-rent-it cement mixer. Aside from that, they're just fine. Yet another product that was underthought, undertested and overmarketed. Pertronix as a make-believe alternator.

That's funny. I've never heard that about the PowerGen but then again, I don't really do modifications to my vehicles. I've seen them and thought they looked like a good solution for an easy swap, albeit expensive.

Do alternators create more heat than DC generators?

ok then, gen sounds right and the way to go- would you recommend running #10 to a front terminal block for lights as well as to the back- and use a standoff to keep it insulated from frame neg./return. then take all back to
a central place on the firewall that has a main conductor #8 or #6 to batt. thanks for the good practical advice.

Otto, the charging current from an alternator is created in the stator, the stationary winding in the large diameter fixed frame. Look at a real alternator- - - -the frame is a wide open design with lots of air flowing over the wiring. The rotor creates a spinning magnetic field that sweeps over the stator. Generators spin the current creating conductors with the armature, and create magnetism with the stationary field coils,. A generator makes the charge current in the armature, the rotating part, and there's a fan built in to create a wind tunnel effect through the housing. Reversing the concept by mounting the stator in an enclosed housing without adequate cooling so it looks like a generator doesn't make good nonsense.
Jerry

I seem to be slipping away from the right solution. Would this work for the temp with a 45A regulator?

Alternators like the 10-SI style in the picture are self-regulating for current, based on the way the stator is made. They do not need an external current control. That one has a 60 amp stator, which is approximately twice the capacity of the 30 amp generator it usually replaces. The charge rate automatically tapers off as the battery reaches full charge, so most of the time it will be operating in the 5-10 amp range. It has an internal voltage regulator set for a maximum of 7.5 volts, which is also correct for a "6 volt" electrical system. It's "plug and play" if the installation instructions are followed correctly.
Jerry

That, and most other GM alternators, has a built in regulator.

Thanks. I will purchase a rebuild kit and when time allows enjoy installing the original. Any thoughts on the central location for return wire instead of tapping the inside fenders for the lights...I don't mind running a #10 to front and back.

Jerry, can you explain how I should wire this. They give a few methods. Downfalls or safety precautions. Disconnect so batt. is not slowly drained? When they said "should" in the instructions I am wondering what to do when should goes South. Are you able to get on the Chevs of the 40s site to look at the DA 2 wire plug instructions?

It's a 2 wire with one red hitting the post on Alt. And other wire "exciter" running to + of ignition coil or ignition term. on the ignition switch. So I don't run wire from Alt. batt. terminal to regulator, before going to battery +? And why do the instructions state " there should be battery voltage to the white wire only when the ignition key is on"
thanks for input.

One more time- - - - - -

YOU DO NOT NEED AN EXTERNAL REGULATOR WHEN USING AN ALTERNATOR.

Run the big output wire from the alternator straight to the downstream side of the ammeter. Connect all the supply wires to such things as the ignition switch, headlights, and any accessory fuse block(s) to the same terminal. The only thing that gets attached to the other side of the ammeter is a single heavy wire (#8 maybe) to the battery cable terminal at the starter. Do not connect ANY wires to the original 3-unit regulator. It's not needed. You can remove it, and the wires attached to it unless you plan to go back to a generator/regulator setup sometime in the future.
Jerry

Ok. Sounds like a terminal strip is in order before hitting the ammeter. Thanks

Directions on Alt from Chevs of 40's has sensing wire going to Alt. Should it be terminated elsewhere to sense voltage diff down line? If my drawing is flawed or needs additions please let me know.

I'd move it downstream. Someplace that is switched like the "run" terminal on the ignition switch.