The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Power steering conversion

I been reading alot about the steering control on my 58 Apache. The steering wheel has about 2-3 of loose freeplay before the pitman arm even twitches. I tried to adjust freeplay out but it seems there is nothing left to adjust. Since i need to pull the steering column and box to remove the cab, i figure i might consider installing a newer column with tilt and at that point, power steering. There are so many kits out there and none of them include all the stuff. The negative reviews also seem to be excessive and instructions lacking.

Ive searched here and other places for detailed success stories and come up empty.

I would appreciate being pointed in the right direction. I’m willing to go to the auto graveyard for parts if need be.

Ididit is good. I`ve done 3. Fairly simple, Pricey however.
Maybe find a better condition original manual column.

I purchased the kit from CCP on my 57 3100. I used the original steering column. Wasn't to bad of a job. Just followed instructions. Works very well.

Didn’t you guys have to cut the original column outer tude and drive rod? How did it adapt at that point?

I went to the ididit web site. They sell columns and accessories as far as i can tell. None of the other parts (control box, pitman, pump, brackets).

Kevin,

Replacing/upgrading just the steering column and not the steering box or remainder of the steering components isn't going to help your freeplay issue.

You said you adjusted the steering gear freeplay out, but have you eliminated possible freeplay throughout the rest of the steering (drag link and tie rods)???

Also interested to know what instructions/methods you used to do the steering box adjustment process?

If you didn't accomplish anything with the adjustment, it's very possible your steering box needs a rebuild.

Dan

It is NOT necessary to remove cab for column removal. If you have a lift or high rise air jack you can raise the truck enough to pull column sans steering wheel out from underneath. If paint scratches are not a concern you can raise the cab an inch, roll forward an inch, repeat till column clears.

Dan,
The existing box had no adjustability remaining. I released the locknut and tried to turn the adjuster clockwise. It seems to be bottomed out. I read about this in a box rebuild manual which the title escapes me right now.

I know i would need a new box to add power steering. It’s that or rebuild the existing box. I also need to check out the rest of the front end.

Grady, the CPP offering has promise. They even have a step by step instruction for install in a 3100. Thankyou!

Now, I just need to find a more reasonably priced steering column if i want tilt. Holly has some stuff.

There are electric power assist units that work with the original steering gear.

I would fix every other component in the steering linkage before changing the column.

Thankyou! I’ll look into the electric power assists. Since i dont have a seat at this point. Im unsure of how poor or how good the steering wheel position is gonna be. That’s why i figured tilt would be a good addition. Since the cab is coming off, i need to pull the steering column anyway.

There are complete power steering conversion kits available from a number of aftermarket sources. Adding an electric or hydraulic
ram assist to a worn out steering gear will not solve the problem. I did the conversion 20 years ago using a Toyota steering box and
modified my 3 speed column. The tie rods should also be upgraded for this conversion. It's also important to check the condition of
the king pins and springs.
Fred

Thanks Fred,
I expect all front end joints to be well worn like the steering box. I anticipate the need to rebuild/replace most joints. The springs will get a complete teardown.I always planned on converting to power steering. I’m checking out the CPP 400 series kit which mounts in the factory location. I emailed them asking about space clearance conflicts with small block chevy engines and headers.

Thats the one I use on the 327`s. You will have to enlarge the factory
mounting holes in the frame. I also put in heat shields and wraps to keep the box for
getting too hot. The original ram horn headers are close.

How close is close?

I was considering Rams horn manifolds. They now have them with 1-5/8” primaries and 2-1/2” outlets.

2 2 1/2 inches. Its close . I wrapped from the flange down and put
a motorcycle exhaust shield around the pipe between the steering box.
Having a heat gun on loan , I was able to actually see how hot is was getting.
Maybe 275. I dropped it 70.

Would moving the engine forward help or make it worse? I’ll be hanging the engine and tranny on new tubular crossmembers which gives some flexability.

If i cant use anything but stock 1-3/8 by 2” exhaust manifolds, i guess it will be time to consider the 500 series box. I dont like the wandering shaft and forward mount box, but its a tradoff to he able to use better exhaust headers/manifolds.

I`d say the clearance is OK. I`ll take a pic of the distance for you.
No problem with clearance ,just maybe too much heat.

Thankyou! I remember the way my V8’s of my youth would move in the engine compartment when I’d rev them. Clearances had to give the powerplant room to flex. Fortunately most of that is in the direction of the passenger side.

Hard pic to take, but this will work.

If you can move the motor up and use a HEI that would help as well.
Right now, mine is close to the firewall as to which I made
a special flat head screw driver just for those back 2 screws.

Are your rams horn stock or with the 2-1/2” collector?

They should be stock

Have any bolters installed the CPP 400 series power steering conversion on a task force era truck along with a small block chevy motor and headers with 2-1/2” to 3” collectors? I ask as i was not impressed with CPP’s response to my email.

I installed the kit from ccp on my 57 3100 with a chevy 350. The stock exhaust manifold is super close as the ram horns don't go straight down like previous pictures. Mine sweep back. It actually touches the unit bolt but hasn't created any issues yet.

Thanks Grady. Looks like the 400 is too close for my liking. Will start looking at the 500 kit.