The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Truck Frames and HP

As I consider what powerpoant to put in Stella, I can’t help but wonder if these old frames can sustain the HP and torque of modern day strokers and other high power motors .

I remember back in the 70’s the same problem was created by unibody construction. Enough so the frames and unibody tie kits were developed.

Anyone have trouble with twisty frames and doors that won’t close because of your Hp/torque mods?

Stovebolt frames were designed to flex. Trying to stiffen one by boxing, etc. usually results in stress cracks forming at the "reinforcement" points. Compared to the Ford frames from the 1930's and 40's, a stovebolt truck frame looks like a tank, and those frames routinely survived Chrysler hemis, Olds Rocket engines, and Pontiac tri-power 389's. Unless you're planning to drop in a blown funny car engine, you're probably good to go with some well-engineered motor mounts an an added crossmember or two.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry. One possibility for Stella is a 383 stroker at 436 HP. Not sure but a certain contender.

I friend of mine put a Pontiac 428 in a 51 3100. They came with 10.75 to 1 compression.
He said that when he launched it from a dead stop, he could see the side of the bed rise considerably in the rear view mirror.
Interestingly, he retained the torque tube rear end, using a Buick bell housing which had the correct bolt pattern for the Pontiac at one end, and the correct bolt pattern for the stock 3 speed on the other end.

A dirt track race car is built sort of like a bridge- - - -the roll cage is a series of trusses that are SUPPOSED to be rigid enough to allow the suspension jack screws to be adjusted for specific wheel loading to alter traction and handling in turns. Watch a good-running car go down the back straightaway sometime- - - -with the left front wheel a foot off the track from engine torque! One of Dad's competitors back in the early 1950's ran a sedan body instead of a coupe like everybody else. He sat less than a foot ahead of the rear wheel. His frame was flexible enough to hold the front wheel off the ground the full length of the back stretch!
Jerry

I'm boxing my frame with a second set of frame rails mirrored and cut for a "factory" look. X bracing and crossmembers will be Chromoly tube as will the 6 point roll cage. My 292 will be north of 1000 HP.

As long it doesn't wheel hop or you install sticky rear tires, extra power shouldn't hurt the frame. When the tires grab and transfer power to the frame, thats when you get into trouble. I would be more worried about steering, stopping, and high center of gravity.

Enough with the sniping at each other. Stay on topic as previously warned.

I’m doing a 66 c10 with a mild 454 w/m20 4 spd on as close as possible stock engine mounts . I’m not anticipating any frame problems. In all the web surfing regarding transplanting 454’s in 60/66 C10’s I’ve done , I’ve not heard one word regards frame problems

There are a few old trucks racing this years HOTROD Dragweek, they are really quick and look to be pretty stock other then the drivetrains.

As Jerry suggested; a FULLY boxed frame OR a flexible frame will both handle 900hp without a problem. I wish we could get away from horsepower which only counts during bull sessions and talk in terms of torque which is real world.

Huh? You don't like those guys that, when asked about their car, just start rattling off the laundry list of parts they bought and installed or had someone install which resulted in a certain amount of horsepower they never verified on a dyno?

Thank you. In the words of Carroll Shelby "Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races".