The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline TF shackle bushing removal?

I started with the tech tip for pulling the bushings, but I can't get the 6" carriage bolt through because the backside of the mount is riveted to the frame and there is not enough space to manoever it in.

Is there something I am missing here? Or another trick? I got the axle put and the shackle plates off without any real trouble. I soaked everything in penetrating oil for the last couple weeks, so it actually came apart pretty nicely.

My wife is going in for surgery on wed, so this weekend is going to be my last tomwork on it for a while. I haave spent about 5 hours and failed to get either side out yet. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

One question: once it comes loose, will it just pop out? I am wondering if I could use a shorter bolt to break it loose and then pop it the rest of the way out with less extreme measures.

If the threads in the old sleeve are good .don`t remove it from the frame
unless you have to. That can be a problem. If thats what you are doing.
Most of the time ,if the spindle will unscrew, the threads are ok.

I`d have to see a pic of what you are doing. Thanks

I was just debating whether leaving the frame side would be ok.

I cleaned the old grease out with brake cleaner and I can thread the new pins in fine. They feel like they are maybe a hair looser in the threads than in the new bushing, but not enough that I feel confident saying it.

I have new springs with new bushings for them and matching plates from Classic Industries. I probably didn't need the new plates, but figured doing it all once was probably a good idea.

I couldn't get the old pins out by hand, I had to double nut them and use a wrench to unscrew them. I didn't go crazy with a breaker bar or anything though, the old grease-dirt mix was just gummy.

I just posted about this earlier today. If you have some fibre type wheel bearing grease---which was usually short fiber but could have been long fiber (or any good thick fibre grease) hand pack those well, put them back together and install new grease seals. The thick fibre (or fiber if you prefer) grease will stay in place a long time (won't squish out like the junk we get today), will take up slack and does a nice job of cushioning mechanisms like the shackle pins, ball-bearing type wheel bearings, steering rod balls & cups...any sort of stuff like that. This grease was used widely for big trailer connections. This grease is no longer made but all grease is just oil that's been treated with an agent...thickening agent which is called a soap and that could include light metals as well. There are not fibers in this grease but it looks like there are. The soap causes the grease to separate into strings. Anytime I see any for sale I buy it if the price is right. Attached are two images. One shows the stuff and you can see the fibers in it. One shows the can. 30 years ago this was about $2 a pound. Not the same today but if you own one of these trucks, you may find this very useful. Good luck.

Yeah, the pin in the bucket is usually easy to get out. But I`ve seen them seized. Going back in with the new leaf spring
has been step 1 for me. Thats a very precise lined up pin there.
Once thats in and the axle raised up to the spring. The plates will rotate to the spring eyelet and threads.

I ended up spending 12 hours under there today, but it has an axle now! Once I connected everything it tightened up very nicely.

I tried to go to burger king for a cheap soda and some AC, but they thought I was a hobo and kicked me out.

No matter. You are probably better off.
Thats a lotta work. Congrats.