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#1517207 09/13/2023 6:52 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
I have never owned a torque wrench and will be buying one to reinstall my cylinder head. What do folks find works better? The new digital wrenches or the old analog with the pointer? Or is there no difference, just personal preference.
Thanks!

Daves46pu #1517216 09/13/2023 7:59 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,009
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,009
I have both the clicker type and beam type with pointer. The clicker is pretty dummy-proof as you don't have to look at the pointer (sometimes hard to do.) You do have to be able to hear the click, though. wink


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Daves46pu #1517226 09/13/2023 8:57 PM
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,479
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,479
I am a 60 year fan of the pointer type. As a friend of mine learned, if the batteries go out or go low in the digital ones, a strong guy can snap a head bolt waiting for the thing to beep or flash or whatever it is they do. And then you get to learn how to extract a bolt which broke off just inside the threaded zone...a bolt that was really tight when it snapped.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Daves46pu #1517227 09/13/2023 8:58 PM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
D Offline
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 170
Thanks for the info!

Daves46pu #1517239 09/13/2023 9:54 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,009
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,009
No batteries in my clicker torque wrench, just some sort of mechanism that snaps over center when the torque value is reached.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Daves46pu #1517289 09/14/2023 1:38 AM
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,715
J
62401
62401
J Offline
Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,715
Also a fan of the clicker type. Here's the one I got to do my 261 rebuild. I'm very pleased with it. As Jerry (Hotrod Lincoln) taught me, there is a way to hold it so you do not stress your shoulder. And you will want to calibrate it. Calibration is good to do whether you have a clicker or a needle.

Here's the one I got
Attachments
label.jpg (41.65 KB, 99 downloads)
20170321_155816.jpg (170.85 KB, 98 downloads)
DSC_0062.JPG (191.93 KB, 100 downloads)
Jerry (Hotrod Lincoln) using my torque wrench on my 261 rebuild


~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
1973 IH 1310 Dump
1963 Kaiser M38A1
2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"
2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Daves46pu #1517319 09/14/2023 4:21 AM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
We have both clickers and beepers BUT we have the old beam to calibrate both. Two half inch drive sockets welded together connect the beam to the others.


Evan

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