Are the wheels tight on the pilot diameter on the hubs? That's what centers them on the hubs. If they are and you have the top plates remove any burrs from the wheels and I would think they would run fine as long as there tight.
Last edited by Chris's 46 / 515; 09/06/20236:43 PM.
Are the wheels tight on the pilot diameter on the hubs? That's what centers them on the hubs. If they are and you have the top plates remove any burrs from the wheels and I would think they would run fine as long as there tight.
I wouldn't use those wheels. If the lugs are even the slightest bit loose, the oval holes will have a "run" at the lugs and hit them harder than if the holes were round. Impact really multiplies the force, and the lugs might shear off, resulting in a really bad day.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Are the wheels tight on the pilot diameter on the hubs? That's what centers them on the hubs. If they are and you have the top plates remove any burrs from the wheels and I would think they would run fine as long as there tight.
No way would I run that wheel. With that big of a slot the wheel can rotate on the hub putting a lot of force on the studs when hard braking. Your just asking for it to sheer the studs off and leave you with one less wheel going down the road...not good! Turn that wheel into a backyard fire pit!
As far as that go's, if your that worried about the wheel coming off. The studs should be changed when you replace the wheel because I'm sure they have been stressed from all the back and forth hammering besides being 77 years old!
