I"m preparing to install my front fenders. I have the spongy rubber anti-squeek that goes as shown on section 11 page 14 of the FAM book. I don't find the instruction to be very self explanatory. The instructions that came with the rubber said to use a 20 inch piece on each inner fender "view A". But there is much more than 20 inches of space where it can be installed. I'm guessing that maybe it might run from just behind the bracket for the rod to the firewall, and run toward the rear from there. But that is purely a guess on my part. It may be that it really doesn't matter much. Can one of you folks help me out with this. I think the rubber seal on the little plates that mount to the firewall will hopefully be self explanatory. But if you have any info that you think might help, then include that too. A picture might be worth a thousand words here too.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
Which truck are you working on, the 1940 or 1953???
Guessing the 1953, but want to ask to be sure before offering to send you on a wild goose chase - lol!
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Mike, I have a picture of my '51 front clip that pretty much confirms what you're guessing about the anti-squeek between the inner and outer fenders. It's a little hard to see to really be sure though. Zoom way in to see what I'm saying. Also a pic of the driver's side filler plate. Mine on the passenger side, the L-shaped one wasn't real visible in my photos.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Kevin, In your pictures, it appears that the rubber between the inner and outer fenders is probably cut into pieces that fit between the bolts. That's what I had pretty much decided to do anyway, If it's just an anti squeek thing, that would work just as well anyway. In regards to the little panels that screw to the firewall to fill the gaps out to the fenders. I looked for pictures this morning, and didn't really find much. The only one that I found looked like the guy had the L shaped one on the driver side. But you mentioned that the L shaped one goes on the passenger side. I looked for a long time to try and find those little plates in the FAM, but never found them. Maybe they weren't used in 54/55 ??? Thanks for all of your help.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
Mike Look in Section 11, Pages 13.00 and 14.00 of the FAM. Page 14.00 shows the driver's side filler plate. Until I just found that those pages, you got me thinking as to whether the L shaped one really went on the passenger side, but it makes sense that it would because the passenger side inner fender bolts directly to the toe panel on the cab there.
Page 13.00 shows the rear seal continuous past the bolt holes. I think on my picture, they had just been squished there so the part extending below the joint had fallen off. I don't think I'd go to the trouble of notching the seal. But you'd still have to punch holes for the bolts.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The only thing I'll add is to be certain to use something that is non-porous and won't harbor water. I learned the hard way one doesn't want water to sit in that seam. And it can do that.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
There was originally a U shaped piece of rubber that went around the outer edge of those pieces. Like the other stuff, please make certain it will not harbor water. I used some neoprene sponge I saturated with Plasti-Dip so it would not hold water.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I used the Inner Fender Seal Kit from Classic Parts, part number 37-725. Worked out well. Re-using the staples was a bit redious but managable.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Walter, thank you so much for posting that picture. I had it in my mind that the long piece of rubber went on top of the inner fender sides. I never considered anything else. After looking at your picture, I went back and looked at the FAM book, and I feel sure that you have it exactly correct. I have my rubber glued in the wrong place. I hope I can remove it. Im feeling very dumb at the moment.
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
Glad to help, here's some more pictures, the foam starts near where the paper ends. I had a hard time understanding the two pieces that screw to the firewall. Now I'm having fits with installing the door glass, but finally figured it out. Keep on with the giant truck puzzle, it will come together.
Walter, thank you so much for posting that picture. I had it in my mind that the long piece of rubber went on top of the inner fender sides. I never considered anything else. After looking at your picture, I went back and looked at the FAM book, and I feel sure that you have it exactly correct. I have my rubber glued in the wrong place. I hope I can remove it. Im feeling very dumb at the moment.
The area of the inner fenders where the bolt holes for the fenders are takes tar paper which already has holes in it for the bolts.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission