My 58 and 59 have the original tie rods. My 58 step looks like the spindles have been replaced and the newer tie rods(pic) offered fit. But not the original spindles and steering rod on the 58 and 59 . A rebuild kit for the original tie rods is $315. Where can I find the spindles that will fit the newer tie rods I have pictured.
I don't think you need to replace the spindles to use the style of tie rod ends shown in your picture. This has been discussed on this forum before and there is a tech tip too. I haven't looked at the tech tip as I already have the newer style tie rod ends.
Thanks!! It sure has been discussed. Great info. I`ll have to take some pics of what I am looking at. I read that the 3 trucks are in between the years of tie rod change. So they could end up with either.
A few minutes with a taper reamer can probably convert your original spindles to use the tie rod ends with the tapered studs. No need to swap to the later model spindles. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
A few minutes with a taper reamer can probably convert your original spindles to use the tie rod ends with the tapered studs. No need to swap to the later model spindles. Jerry
Not having any luck finding a mechanic that will ream these spindles for me. Must be easier work elsewhere. How hard would it be for me to ream these? What size taper? Would the spindles have to be removed? thanks again!!!!!
Where can I find the spindles that will fit the newer tie rods I have pictured.
Have you checked that those tie-rod ends actually have tapered shanks? I bought ones that look like those when I removed the balls on my steering arms. They have straight shanks that go in the holes in the steering arms after the balls were pressed out. I believe I got them from the Filling Station. Jim Carter also sells the tie rod ends that replace the straight shank balls used thru 1959 (according to the note on their PN ME347L.) No reaming necessary.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Yes, the ball has to be pressed out. Each end of the hole has a chamfer and metal from the ball shank is peened into that space (larger than the bore), so that metal should be removed so that the ball presses out more easily. The way I did it was to drill the center of the shank (not all that far in) with a drill bit not much smaller than the shank. That gives that metal in the chamfer somewhere to go (gets squeezed into the hole you drilled.) I used a ball joint press. If you're going to taper ream the holes after pressing the ball out, I'd recommend removing the steering arms first (same for pressing out the balls) so that you can get the reamer lined up correctly. The steering arm comes off without removing the spindle. Just the two lower spindle attaching bolts need to be removed.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you mean leaving the steering arms on, I think the little effort in removing them is well worth it vs the effort it would take to remove the balls with them in place. On your figure it says "drive out old ball studs". That implies using a hammer, which I wouldn't recommend. You'll likely bend the steering arms trying that.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Have you got the new tie-rods in hand? The ones being sold as replacements have a straight shank that will drop in the steering arms without any reaming or tapering. And as Kevin just said, the holes are hour-glass shaped, so you need to remove enough material to get the lower peened over portion pushed through the center of the arms. Doing this on the truck isn't going to work, the arm needs supported right at or near the ball end. Even with drilling, they are still wedged in there pretty good. The factory install is very much like a rivet, the whole stud is smashed into the arm to fill all the voids, it's not just the end thats holding them in. The replacements will work just fine with the factory hour-glass holes. DON'T try to remove them on the truck!
Thanks! I was under there this morning looking at all that. You guys are right. I think then a good idea is to spray those bolts/nuts with PB and let it soak.
I have new tie rod ends and steering rod for it. The new steering rod is a full 1 inch dia. I still have that other panel with the same old style tie rods that match what I`ll be taking off. I`d like to use that one in case the other needs parts or replacing. It (tie rods) are frozen at the moment.
