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#1513253 08/16/2023 6:44 PM
Joined: Nov 2009
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Quick question on removing the rear leaf springs.

Looks like you remove the bolt from the pin then drive the locking pin out from the threaded end, appears to be tapered.

The shop manual looks like you attach a slide hammer type device where the grease fitting is removed and then pull out the pin from the shackle and hangar.

There is a hole in the frame on the back side of the hanger, think I can just pound that shackle pin out after removing the locking pin?
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'Bolter
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Per my 1957 shop manual, the shackles are clevis type, after removing the lock pin and grease zerk, thread the slide hammer adapter in the zerk hole, pull the clevis pin with the slide hammer. I have a slide hammer if you need to use it.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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'Bolter
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Today I plumbed in a reservoir tank for vacuum, ran 3/8 copper lines to the rear axle, connected the freshly cleaned and lubed control valve, started the truck and checked for control vacuum at the lines, it should work like a dream once I get the pinion yoke seal and re-assemble the yoke.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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Rustbucket Ranch
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My '58 shares the same shackle/leaf spring set up. The locking pin is held in with a nut and washer and is tapered only on the top side where it engages with a notch in the big spring pin.

I used the punch-through-the-frame method to drive the pin out.
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1949 Chevy 3100 (In the family since new)
1955.5 Chevy 3100 - in the DITY Gallery - (Dad's truck)
1955 Chevy 6500 - in Big Bolts - (Possible parts truck?)
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1959 Chevy Spartan 10400 - in Big Bolts
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'Bolter
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Perfect, that is what I was wondering, thanks for the reply

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'Bolter
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One more question. The excerpt from the shop manual I posted above states to use an arbor press to take the rear springs apart. I don't have a press. I did successfully use a C clamp to take the front spring apart, would I be able to use two 10" clamps (the total thickness of the springs is 8") to safely take these apart?

Also do you think I could get them back together with the C clamps after I get them cleaned up?
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Moderated
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is there a center bolt through the springs? If so just undo and hope the leaves all come apart. thats the way I did it anyways on an old 1 ton truck. when putting them back together I just used extra long u bolts to pull the leaves to the axle and then cut extra bolt length off.

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'Bolter
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I agree with others, remove the center bolt nut and stand on top of the spring pack (to keep your feet out of the way) with it laying flat on the floor. Give the top or bottom spring it a few whacks with a BFH near to the center bolt and things should start falling apart...they are not under any heavy load and should just pop apart.

Make sure you take detailed notes with measurements of each spring...the center bolt hole is not always in the center of each spring. Makes putting things back together much easier.

I reassemble using a long piece of all-thread rod through the center bolt hole, draw it tight, then clamp the pack with the C-clamps, remove the all-thread and install a new center bolt.

Mike B smile


Mike Boteler

1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod
1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep
1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo
1984 Jeep CJ7
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'Bolter
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I bought a 48 6100. Where did you find what rear is in it and get parts? I will need to find a lot of parts. Found out motor is 1958-62 261. Now I need the rest of the drivetrain.

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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Ppacker
I bought a 48 6100. Where did you find what rear is in it and get parts? I will need to find a lot of parts. Found out motor is 1958-62 261. Now I need the rest of the drivetrain.

My drive train was pretty complete, but I did buy another similar truck that didn't have an engine for spare parts.


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