The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Bad reaction to primer?

I used a 2k rattle can primer for touch up when I was doing final blocking. I had burnt through into the glaze coat in a few places. I bought it from the same place I get all my other supplies.

I have a oil/water separator 50 feet down stream of the compressor. I have a dedicated airline from the separator, and I have a pod separator at the gun.

First coat of this epoxy was simply a tack coat. It looked a little weird on the touch up primer, but we figured we would wait the 4 hrs and see what things looked like with a second coat.

Second coat went completely different vs the first. Got some fish eyeing in some places and perfection in others. The big problem is the different primer. It acted like it was afraid of it. We stopped right there. I have a call into the company for some advice. Hoping there is a work around. Except for this one issue I am very excited how it is turning out. It did lay down flat and will look awesome after clear.

What are the expert thoughts on this?

I am following. I have had a similar response painting my wheels. Some spots lays down good, others exactly what you have pictured.

What was the rattle can primer used? Typically rattle can stuff doesn't play nice with the solvents in automotive paints.

I can grab a pic of the can later today. It is what the body guy who helped me spray uses when he has small touch up to do.

I just spoke with the liner people. He thinks the primer didn't sand the same way as the high build and had too glossy of a finish causing the balling. It was one of the things I did notice when we were final blocking, but I never thought twice about it. It had been on for 5 to 6 days prior to finish sanding. Many of these areas I will be able to sand down and re shoot. It has such a long flash time it is self leveling so I am hopeful I can get things looking good?

I will be very happy with the finished product if I can straighten this problem out. It is going to be super rugged I can tell and it will take another day or two to fully cure.

I've had good results with Spray-Max brand 2K epoxy primer in rattle cans.

That first pic sure looks ugly.

Typically, true fisheye is caused by surface contamination from silicone or oils. It doesn't take much to cause the problem. you may have been spraying some penetrating oil in the same building and the mist will float in the air, anything that will prevent the intercoat adhesion can cause this. How clean is the environment, when wet sanding use clean water in a dedicated bucket, if your well water is heavy with dissolved gases or bacterial iron you might want to consider bottled water for wet sanding.

78 Buckshot,

No oils sprayed for weeks in this area. Night before I blew all the dust out and used prep all. In morning I used prep all again. I am not wet sanding for your exact reasons and this stuff needs some scratches to adhere.

I sent pics to company. They say sand, fill, high build and shoot. I was only two light coats in so its not the end of the world. Just another PITA

Those weren’t the typical look of fisheye, and had it been impurities that causes such defect you would expect them to be elsewhere in the panel as well. Since it was just over the areas that had been sprayed with rattle can primer (please correct me if I’m wrong in that assumption) then it is almost certainly a reaction of whatever was sprayed directly over top of said primer and perhaps it’s solvents were too hot for the primer or the primer was still too green for that next coat.

I made the mistake on some panels to try a paint directly over self etching primer. It was my first job and the can specifically said I could not paint directly onto the self etching primer. Rookie mistake. It sounds like you did everything you were supposed to and still got a bad result. I agree with Robert. It sounds like a reaction between the two products.

Ok. So here is what
Nope you are correct. Trouble on every spot I touched up with primer. I got a little fish eyeing on a rear fender, but it settled in nicely to where I can simply rough and shoot another layer.

I assume my fix is the following:

1. Aggressively sand affected areas.
2. Skim coat filler to smooth things out.
3. Shoot with high build and block as even as I can with surrounding good areas.
4. Re apply the epoxy paint.

I expected 4 to 6 very light coats so it would not sag. I only did 2, so 3 to 4 over everything should get me there. 4 coats in a day is tough due to the 4 hr flash time.

This was the fish eyeing I was talking about. Because this epoxy takes so long to cure it settled in.

So. I have the epoxy sanded pretty smooth. I am going to lay down some heavy coats of high build to fill and blend in height wise with the epoxy that layed down well.

After letting that sit for a while I am going to try and respray the epoxy. Praying it does what it needs to.

Why more epoxy? Why not seal and prep for your top coats?

Your last picture could look like too heavy a coat of epoxy.

4 hour flash????? What product are you using, at what substrate temps, etc. Worst I've had in recent times is a 15-20 minute flash!

It is a color matched epoxy bedliner. I want a very durable paint.

Understood.

Here is the link to the products.

https://store.sprayliningandcoatings.com/product/colored-bedliner/