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#1512603 08/11/2023 1:11 AM
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
I am having problems getting the fenders to sit flat against the cowl. I did replace cowls on both sides so that might be the issue. All the bolts including radiator mounts are loose. I figure I can cut and bend the metal on the cowls to get a better fit but my bigger concern is the driver side seems to be good height wise but the passengers side seems to be high and I know it will cause the hood to be way off. If I shim the cab corner or lower the fender it just causes a gap between the fender and the lower cowl. Any suggestions?

p.s. I do not see how its possible to paint and put these panels back together without scratching everything. Is that the usual sequence? Almost seems easier to remove the engine and radiator, paint everything and put engine back in while supporting the front of the fenders then drop the radiator straight down and in????

Thanks as always.
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
1950 chevy 3100

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,475
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,475
Always fit the hood first, then fit everything to the hood. There is a tech tip for aligning the front end that may help. Here is a link. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...2/ad-front-clip-alignment-procedure.html


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
thanks thats a much better file than the old manual

Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Am I correct in saying that hood or no hood...these fenders will never sit flush because the hood adjustment has nothing to do with that? For the fenders to sit flat would need the radiator to fender supports to stretch out 2 inches to push the fender in at the door if that makes any sense?

Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,475
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,475
The hood has to sit evenly and tight to the anti squeak on top of the cowl. The radiator support height, center hood support bracket and the two cowl to fender braces have everything to do with that. Once that is adjusted then align the fenders. Being you replaced sections of the cowl, that may affect your fender gaps and you might have redo some bodywork to tighten your gaps.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
Thanks again Phak1...I installed hood..got it to sit evenly and tightly against anti squeek...My gaps around it look manageable however I am still working the fenders to get them to sit in the grooves and not have large gaps. When all the bolts are loose and nothing will move I have no idea how to solve the problem other than just keep pulling and twisting and praying that something good happens lol

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,272
Tightening the bolts which hold the fenders to the cowl will tighten those wide gaps. The fender flanges will form fit from tightening the bolts, drawing in the fender edge closer to the cowl.

Beaded fender welting was used in this area to hide imperfections where the fender meets the cowl.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 76
thanks 52carl


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