Does anyone have some pictures on how the ignition switch and key cylinder goes together?? The truck I am working on has something from a Opel.. Greetings from Germany, Bob
If you have an original style ignition switch, with the key in the cylinder, just push the cylinder into the switch body and turn it. It will click into place and stay there. There's a hole in the face of the cylinder where you stick a paper clip or small punch to depress a plunger and turn the cylinder with key in place to the left to release it. Here's an old tech tip on the ignition switch for a 1937 truck. LINK Your switch would be similar except for the mounting.
Here's a pic of an original style ignition switch and cylinder stolen from one of the vendor sites.
As far as an Opel ignition switch, I haven't a clue.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you have a Stovebolt era truck the process is the same except the pin you push in is on the side of the cylinder. You must remove the cylinder from the dash to access it.
If you have a Stovebolt era truck the process is the same except the pin you push in is on the side of the cylinder. You must remove the cylinder from the dash to access it.
A 1950 truck would have the type of ignition switch like the picture i posted. It has the release pin in the face of the cylinder. You can see the plunger on the switch body in the picture at about the 10 o'clock position.
Here's a pic of a 54-55.1 ignition switch body, and you can see the plunger on the front as well.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you mean the cylinder, that plunger prevents the cylinder from turning to the position where it can come out. There are notches inside the body that hold it in place until turned past the plunger.
As far as mounting the switch, there's a bracket that attaches to the bottom of the dashboard and has screws that engage the ears you can see in the first picture I posted. Here's a pic of the bracket.
Reproduction brackets, switches, and key cylinders are available from Classic Parts and other vendors.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The last key cylinder I bought from Classic Parts (8 years ago) used a key that was about 0.010" thinner than stock. I had a local lock shop re-pin the cylinder to match my glove box and door locks. When I tried to use the old keys on the new key cylinder I couldn't get the key to slide into the lock. Had to take a little metal off of both sides of the key a flat file. Same using old Briggs & Stratton GM key blanks.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Can't argue with that. Repop parts are hit and miss as far as being correct. Unfortunately, all the vendors get their stuff from the same source.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
