The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts '35 Chevy Fire Truck 1 1/2 Ton

I thought I posted a "new topic" a few days back about this old truck. Couldn't find it in Big Bolt section, so I will try again.
I am a retired California Department Of Forestry Batallion Chief and have a '35 CDF built-up Chevy Fire Truck. My dad drove this when he started with CDF in '37. He left us last year before I could get it restored.
It is a complete vehicle and needs ALL the wood replaced. I have it on order and expect the matreial any day.
The engine is not original but I am not sure what year it is....the number stamped on block just behind the distributer is N373214CAL. I know it is an early pressured system because a oil line runs around the back of the block from the lower left side of the motor to the top right side of the motor.
Any ideas?

I have a 1935 engine and transmission, plus a lot of other parts that...if you are interested.

John Boy, could you post some links to pictures? I would like to see it

I have pics but need to jump thru the hoops of hookin em up to this operation.

Welcome!

Welcome to the bolt page!

In 1935, the correct engine for a Chevy would have been a 207. Since it is not original as you said, you have an interesting challenge. It is a straight 6? Looking at the resources available through this site, it appears that anything with a 373 prefix would indicate a 50's 235. I believe the 'N' at the front would indicate a 54 block, but the casting number doesn't match up.

Any other thoughts?

It appears in '35 only one eninge was used. The serial Num is 837591. Apparently this was the only motor available.
Wrench Fetcher.....I emailed those pics. I obviously am not handy with the computer. Hope it doesn't tie your operation to long.

The correct engine for a 1935 truck is a 207 cu. in engine with a casting number 837591 that is located between the distributor and the fuel pump. The engine number is stamped on a smooth machined boss to the rear of the fuel pump and would start with T for the 1.5 ton truck. The block will have the water jacket on the upper half of the cylinders. John Boy e-mail me if you need any information on the 35. I have most of Sales and Engineering information on 34-35 trucks.

The 35 Master car and all the trucks used the same engine casting for the block but the engine mounting was different; the car block will have extra threaded holes in the sides of the block for the rear mounts, where as, the truck was mounted off the clutch housing solid to the frame.

Hey 35 trucker,

The 1935 cars and trucks use different parts, but the same system for mounting. They both have 2 pads under the harmonic balancer, 1 on each side of the clutch housing and 1 at the rear of the trans. ALL 1935 motors are built exactly the same coming off the engine assembly line. Just the bolt on items would be different.

Mike B

Does anyone have experience adapting between an exposed driveline universal joint say an output shaft from a '57 1/2 ton pu 4-speed tranny to this '35 enclosed drive line?

Mike B ; 1935 cars use a different mounting system than the trucks; only the trucks use the clutch housing for mounting with the 32 car mounts on the 1/2 tons and use a solid (no rubber) L shaped bracket in the same position. The cars use a boss on the side of the block for rectangler mount cushions and two individual mounts on the front plate, trucks use a one unit multi piece with rubber mount cusion inside a two piece metal box. The trucks used the Standard engine intake manifold and a higher pitched fan blade.

I left off a few words. The 1.5 tons use the solid mounting at the clutch housing and do not have a transmission mount. The rear of trans is supported by the short center propshaft housing mounting with a internal ball bearing for support. The 1/2 tons use a trans mount that is different than the cars as the car frame is very different than 1/2 ton.

35 trucker,

The 1935/36 car engine side mounts do not attach to the side of the block, they attach to ell brackets bolted to the front outer corners of the bell housing. Side motor mounts on the block didn't start on Chevrolet's until 1958.

I didn't know the truck had a one piece front mount...learn something new every day!

Let me know if you need a picture of the 1935 car side mount...I have a Coupe in the garage.

Mike B

If the enclosed drive shaft on the big bolts are anything like my mini-3/4 ton, you may want to check the length of the drive shaft. Mine has a extra set of universal joints and an additional shaft for the additional 13" of length over the 1/2 ton.

Of course my truck is "modern" compared to yours, but "ancient" compared to a 57 drive shaft and tranny.

Well, I have her all stripped to the frame. The frame has been pressure washed and I am putting the finnal touches on it to prepare for painting.
I pulled the engine and tranny. Going to keep the tranny after replacing all gaskets and freeing the reverse detent rod. Putting in a '57 235 and using the stock bell housing to facilitate the original brake/clutch package.
Replaced break linning.

Great start! Any pictures?

Yep. Problem........I need to get on the webshot thing and then look out!!!!

If I'm not mistaken your 35' bellhousing won't fit your 235. I just went through this in a previous post. You need a 37'-48' bellhousing to adapt your tranny to that 235.I have this on very good authority, I think it was Baldy, and I know it was 3B, cause I bought the bellhousing from him. Mines a 36' 1.5 ton.....Rick

John Boy, I think IndigoBlue had offered me one also from Calif. Maybe he'll show up?...Rick

You may also need a rear cross member to support that 37-48 bellhousing, although I'm not familar with a '35. I made this swap in my '33 and had to change the crossmember. And also make a adapter to support the front mount as the 235 is a shorter engine.

This is interesting.....I pulled the '35 bell housing off and put it on the 235. It seems to fit...although I have not actually bolted it on. I just merly held it up and the four bolt holes line up. I will have to put it on tomorrow before I get to cocky. Thanks for the warning!!

You're right 31'32'33, the 207 is about 2" longer than the 235 and the rear cross member needs to be changed. I'm just going to weld an extention on to my 235 mount and fabricate a new rear bellhousing mount off my frame. Any thing else you can think of?........Thanks Rick

Rick, when I recieved the '35 the rear cross member was already partialy cut. They just put tabs off of the bellhousing of the original '35 and mounted it the what was left of the original cross member, about 3-4" out from the fram. Then they added a piece of 1/2" stock some 5" long to the bottom of the front under the timing chain cover. It worked for them. When I put the 235 in I will fabricate a solid plate and change the timing chain cover to convert.

I need to find out what the factory front brake adjustment should be for my '35. I just put new brake linning on the front. What position are the offcentric actuators supposed to be in. It appears if the tabs on the shoes that rotate with these actuators are in their fartherest open position when the breaks are applied, they will accomidate linning wear?
I am not sure how to adjust. On the backing plate, there is a set screw and nut that appears to regulate just how tight these tabs are at rest?
Does anyone have any ideas..............assuming you understand just what the heck I just said.

I've not got into my front brakes yet, I'm still wrestling the rear drums,bearings,springs,and stuff. I was lucky, someone put all new brake linings on mine before they parked it 1958 in the barn The 207 gave up the ghost and they just parked it.It only has 51,000 on it. How many miles on your firetruck? I,m putting in a 58' 235 so our projects are real similar. If I run into any strange things I'll get back to you.One thing I did notice is the 38'- 47' bellhousing looks like it will take the side mounts on the 35' housing anyone confirm that?...Rick

Hey John Boy, you might find a service bulletin on our front brakes on this site, go to the on line manuals......Rick

Rick
I could most "bolters" worst nightmare. I no not have enough back ground in BIG BOLT applications to warrent listening to me. However, I do have greese under my finger nails and it appears that the bellhousing that was in the '35 WILL fit the '57 235. I just tore the 235 down and found out it was good engine. I will add machine work to the head and new bearings on the bottom and puter back toghether.

Same thing happened to me John Boy, I got a free 235 from a guy making a rod out of a 51' COE and found out it was recently rebuilt and it's a full pressure 58'-62' motor. Dude, lighten up on yourself, we all learn something from everybody here.We're all brothers and sisters of the Bolt.Know body knows everything except maybe 3B. :DI,m blown away at the collective knowledge here. Some of the best people I,ve never met. I can't help but wonder the casting number on your 35' bellhousing is, could you tell me?

Rick,
I will look for the bell housing number and get back to ya. Thanks for the support:D
I just found out last nite that the 235 is out of a '58 .5ton PU. Not sure what difference it will make to my applaication. Do you know if there was a difference between the "57/'58?
Rick, you mentioned you had some frustation with your new project with its brakes. Does it have tapered axles? I also noticed with mine there are greese cups attached to the back of the backing plate on the back side. In addition, zerk fittings are attached to the spring package where the U-bolts attache at the axle tube housing on the rear end? Does the lube movement between the axle tube/spring attachment?

The rear axle bearings do not get lube from the differential in you truck; there is a leather seal inboard of the bearing that keeps the differential lube out. The ball bearings use a cup grease and the lube chart says to turn the grease cup every 1000 miles. The zerk fitting on the spring to axle housing is to lube this area so the rear axle will rotate separate from the springs; lube with chassis grease. Get your self a shop manual original or reprint it shows the above and gives you all your brake information. Your front brake adjustment is the same as the master car for 1935.

35 trucker, I don't have the grease cups on my 36'. Do I just pack the bearings in the hub and call her good? That grease zerk in the spring to axle housing was bugging me too.Thanks for the info. I notice theres a zerk in the torque tube also. I need to get a sevice manual :confused:

The zerk on the torque tube is for gearlube. Do not use grease. You usually only need to fill it after you've had it apart, after that, the transmission leaking into it tends to keep the U-joint lubricated. 35 Trucker will correct me if I'm wrong, but the 36 backing plates could be completely different than the 35 due to the use of hydraulic brakes starting in 1936.

Baldy
I drained the dif and it sits empty at this time. When I get ready to fill, can I go thru the dif inspection cover hole and fill?

Baldy you are correct for the the 36 Hydraulic brake backing plate. The early 36 1.5 ton trucks still had the 35 mechanial brakes. When the low cab came out in March of 36 they also went to Hydraulic brakes. A lube chart in the shop manual tells you what and where to lube each fitting. They used the zerk fitting both for chassis grease and for trans/differential lube 90-160W oil. The 36 rear end is a full floating design in which most everything is different than the semi-floating 35. The rear hub uses tapered roller bearing instead of ball bearings.

35 trucker,
If the 36 has tapered roller bearings does it still have the same axle ends as the 35?

The parts book list two different part numbers for the 36 rear axle housings and both are different than the 35. p/n 601932 for model R with mechanical brakes and p/n 602233 for hydraulic brakes. The propshaft to differential are the same as 35. Axle shaft is 36 only p/n 593066 (36 & 1/32 in. long). Rear hub, bearings, brake flange and etc. seem to be the same as 36 to 39. It seems wheel are different from 35 to 36 (offsets). 36 axle ends would be different than 35.

Does your hot rod have 10 lug nuts to hold on you rear tires. Or is that something common to "Big Bolters".
In '36 did they eliminate the bar that faciates the emergency break in front of the dif?

The 36 mechanical brake (early 36) had the emergency brake cross shafts on the rear axle housing. The 36 Hydraulic rear axle did not; the hand brake lever had a short rod to the center cross member short cross shaft and then back with rods to frame cross member, where the rear spring front attachment is located, then attached to cables that go back to the backing plate at the front center edge. Both trucks used 5 stud attachment on the frt. wheel and 10 on the rear.

Mike B Your are right on the engine block for the 35 mounting 34 was the last year for the side of the block mounting. The 35 car used two indiviual mounts on the front set at an angle, truck was flat one piece on the bottom of the front plate. The rear were a rectangler mount off the both sides of the clutch housing, trucks were the same as the 32 car on the 1/2 ton and solid steel l shaped brackets on the 1.5 tons. Truck mounting was in the same location on the clutch housing.