I am ready to put on PPG DP50LV epoxy primer on the bottom of the floor while I have the cab sitting on the cowl. I was thinking I could just brush it on since I will be putting undercoat on top of the primer. I am thinking that since I am not spraying I won't need reducer. I read some posts on line about giving it lots of drying time since it's going on thicker. Any thoughts on this?
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
I wouldn't do that. It may not cure property. I tried it and ended up scraping it off... My suggestion is to go to Harbor Freight and get a purple spray gun, drill out the 1.3 tip to 1.6 to handle the heavy primer and spray it. If your worried about the nooks and crannies, pick up a smaller gun. Their cheap and are throw aways. And if you still can't get in the small areas (then I might ask, how did you clean them out...) Then use a brush. Also make sure your primer is compatible to the undercoat or it will lift it.
Mike
1940 Chevy 1/2 Ton presently... Almost done 1940 Chevy Business Coupe... In pieces
I think it would cure just fine assuming you have the hardener in the right proportions. I have brushed epoxy on some spots without issue. It may take a little longer to cure, but should be fine if you aren't impatient about cure time. The critical thing is prep before applying primer, either by brush or spray. You can also reduce it the same as if you were spraying. I've sprayed rattle can undercoating, both 3M and Upol brands over epoxy primer without issues with lifting. The primer was fully cured before applying the undercoating.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
One important aspect of reducer/thinner for the primer is that it allows the primer to sink into the surface imperfections and seams. As a primer, you want as good adhesion as possible.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Second thoughts. Once I got back out to the shop and started thinking about the steps to finish the bottom of the cab, I realized I need to mask off the rest of the cab for the undercoating so I might as well spray it. I imagine thin coats sprayed is better than brushing thicker coats. I just had to hear myself say it. Well it's all masked off and ready to spray tomorrow.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
We used to brush lacquer type primer on all the time. Especially if we needed to get a thicker layer faster and didn't want to waste primer or if we were priming something like a trunk floor or floorboard. A friend calls that method the HVNP approach (highest volume no pressure). With that type primer we normally mixed 50/50 primer and thinner. If we were brushing it on, we'd use a mix more like 60/40 primer/thinner but it always worked fine. It was important not to lollygag because that primer dries almost immediately. What I've learned about epoxy (of any sort...filler, primer, whatever) is if you mix part a and part b the only thing that will stop the mix from curing is if you don't mix both parts together completely. If you get it thoroughly mixed it may cure faster (too much hardener) or slower (not enough) but I've never seen anything that will stop it from curing. Oh and here's another thing: if you need to paint on a layer of genuine epoxy (like JB Weld), you can do it. Get the regular JB Weld (not the Kwik Weld), mix both parts and then thin it with acetone to a brushable point. About 6 years ago I had to repair a fuel tank on a log splitter (a tank which was no longer available anywhere) and I did this--two coats. After it set for a few days I re-joined both tank halves sealing the seam with epoxy and it is still working fine today. Good luck!
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Just something I had happen one time, since JB Weld is mentioned. I fixed a motorcycle fairing with JB, used the proper factory touch up spray paint primer etc. some months later the JB area slightly blistered. I was very careful and clean about the whole deal. So I thought since JB might have metal particles in it that it could have been some kind of galvanic deal? I don't know I know I let it cure a long time. Maybe it was me don't know. Has anyone else had that problem?
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
I ended up spraying on three coats of epoxy on the floor, but I brushed paint on the inside lower lip. No way to get a spray gun in that area. Looks good. I'm going to spray the undercoat on today, it's had two days to dry and the spec sheets say the primer only needs one before top coat. I have one week to put it on if I needed.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Bottom is finished. I have 3 coats of PPG 50NVL and then rubberized undercoating. I am going to let that set for a few days and then set it on the bottom so I can work on the rest of the truck. I have the doors and the hood to prep and paint too.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Yes, it was sprayed on. I bought a gun that screws right onto the container for about $30. Cleans up really easy too.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
