The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Bellhousing and Flywheel Installation

Hello, I am a little green when it comes to these motors. So far I love the 235 that was in my 53 Chevy. I had it pulled for a 1962 235 that I have that is a little more powerful. I have a mechanic shop doing the install, as I don't have a lift anymore and the space. He just called me and asked me if he has to remove the bellhousing to install the flywheel..... The motor is out of the car, the bellhousing was bolted on by my guy who built it, but he never install the flywheel. Does the bellhousing need to come off to install the 11" flywheel? I have never tried any other way, I have always removed the housing... Should I be afraid that this guy doesn't know what he is doing?????

I don't know what to say about the guy doing the work, but I'm not inclined to throw mud at him yet. He doesn't have to remove the bellhousing to install the flywheel. If there is no flywheel currently all he has to do is position the flywheel where it will mate with the mounting studs, apply sealer to all the bolts (extremely important), use either star lock washers or the twin locking plate (bend up the tabs on each bolt head once bolts are torqued) and torque them as per the shop manual. Good luck.


The 1962 235 is one of the better 235s you can have. In 1959 GM (Chevy) used a new camshaft which provided more torque at lower rpms and had a nice flat torque line unlike many of the other 235s.

You might also mention to him that checking and if needed replacing the pilot bushing is a good idea before everything is all put back together.

The bellhousing MUST be installed before the flywheel goes on, because it covers up a few of the housing attaching bolts. Also, due to the relationship of the six bolt holes and the three dowel rods in the crankshaft flange, it's idiot-proof. The flywheel only bolts on in one position. I use blue LocTite instead of thread sealer in addition to the star lock washers. Be sure the number of flywheel teeth and the starter match up- - - -139 teeth on the flywheel if you're using a 6 volt starter, or a 168 tooth ring gear for a 12 volt starter.
Jerry.

The shop manual (pages 6-33 and 6-34 ) covers installation of the flywheel. It does not specify the use of a thread sealer. Is this an omission on the part of the manual? What will leak without the sealer? Like OP, I'm not experienced in this.

You don't have to worry about leaks thru the flywheel bolt threads. But the LocTite Jerry mentioned is extra insurance against the bolts loosening. That's assuming you don't have the original metal pieces with tabs bent against the flats of the bolts to keep them from backing out. If you're using individual lock washers, thread locker (aka sealant) is good insurance.

The flywheel bolt holes go all the way through the flange, and are exposed to crankcase oil. It's possible for the oil to follow the threads and leak into the bellhousing, especially if a split-type lockwasher is used. I prefer the star type washers, with the teeth pointing inward. Thyey do a pretty good job of sealing oil, even if sealer isn't used. The flywheel bolts are 7/16-20 thread.

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Jerry

Gray Ghost Not impossible for motor oil to leak thru the flywheel bolt threads and possibly get to the clutch. As ayoung mechanic 60 yrs. ago I didn,t even know to watch for that problem. Never noticed any sealant on those bolts in I suppose dozens of them.

Notmydads53! Don't you have any shade trees available ?? My son and I done a jasper re-build that way,good memories ! He just ran the wheels off of that little truck,knew how to take care of it.We trimmed the 4-speed stick down and made an 8-ball knob for it.