The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Alternator bracket

I’ve been searching everywhere to find the correct alternator bracket for a 12v upgrade but to no avail.
The truck is a 1951 but appears to have an early 235 motor.
The engine code (FI006J) does match anything I can find so I expect it is a reman short block???
The code and bracket pics as below. The distance between the bolt holes is 3 11/16…

Please help…

Something like this I believe is what you might need

Alternator Bracket - 235

You can see pics of the bracket, the block and then with a generator bracket installed at the link
Your mounting holes are a little different, but the bracket is slotted anyway (to give you correct alignment for the pulley also)
But the main thing is that these are the vertically aligned holes, the early series engines had horizontal (you can compare the early series bracket from same site)

Aside from that, I was interested in seeing your Front Engine mount (your second image) - has the nuts on the Top - interesting way around the Carriage bolt fitment issue

The guys who installed the Re-Man engine way back when were no dummies.

I agree Otto, haven't seen that mentioned anywhere before (doesn't mean doesn't exist elsewhere, just haven't seen it)
While I have your ear (so to speak ) - can you maybe take a quick look at my question on my 58 235 engine thread ((last post)
But that idea might make it moot!

D'Ecosse Yes, I'm all for making things easier. I don't see a real reason for using carriage bolts. The engine torque isn't acting on those bolts in such a way as to rotate them in the mounting hole so use new lock washers and torque them down to spec.

I haven't got to this yet, so not replying with any real knowledge ...
But my understanding was the carriage bolts are so they don't rotate in the timing plate when tightening them down (with std bolt heads in 'normal' orientation, otherwise difficult to acces)
But inverted, with a lock washer (or maybe even a star washer) under the nut, would imagine likely tighten from the bolt inserted from underside even without a wrench on the nut.
However I'm not really sure why those bolts are advised to be 'loosely' assembled until after it is through the crossmember? I guess because final torque would be with the load of the motor on the mount?
It's not like alignment of those can change, especially if they were carriage bolts

Apologies for diversion @Poncho52 - hopefully my first reply got you what you needed.

Back on topic...

I used the generator bracket for my alternator. Turned the bracket around and used a spacer to hold the alternator forward to line it up with the other pulleys. This is a common way to do the conversion.

Thx for the reply’s. I do like the generator bracket idea, think I will go that way.

Poncho52 See that 70$ bracket,before tax and shipping ?? Make you a set of those at home. We all do that ! A cheap shot is all thread thru the original generator bracket with nuts and washers to position the alternator then cobble.... I can't think of that guys word ?? Anyway a belt tentioner so you can get it back to your shop to the mig and a hacksaw !!

My truck came with an alternator that used the original generator bracket and threaded rod with nuts to space the alternator forward. The tension on the belt bent the threaded rod cocking the alternator alignment. Maybe with a spacer that wouldn’t happen, but I was too leery it would happen again, so I didn’t want to go that route. I was also thinking of cutting off the rear tab, moving it forward to match the alternator mounting and welding it back on. I was also missing the correct tension bracket, so I bit the bullet and bought the new alternator bracket that comes with the tension arm. Back three years ago it was only fifty dollars.

I see that Classic Parts have the brackets for $50 & $55 depending on which year 216/235/261 you have. If you decide to go this way, make sure you order the correct bracket. I didn’t understand that there were different brackets for different years and the bolt slots ended up being too small for my ‘59 235. I had to enlarge the slots to fit. Fortunately, I have a lathe with a milling attachment, so it made fairly easy work of it, otherwise, I would have had to file it to fit.

Phak1 I guess I won't tell you I keep my cutting torch razor sharp for dealing with these problems.

phak 1 That's the way ,make your own,haven't had my milling outfit out for a good while.

Take a look at these:

https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perf...&hvtargid=pla-569404690319&psc=1

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...ch_s8aAoe0EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&

The first one was on my 261 but had been drilled out excessively to match the hole spacing and it broke. The second one is made of heavier material, is more expensive, but matched the holes in the block and I was able to reuse the hardware from the one that broke. I did have to use washers to shim the spacing on the ears as they were wider than the alternator hub. Check your measurements and spacing against these, hopefully one will work.

Maybe these will fit?

https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Perf...&hvtargid=pla-569404690319&psc=1

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...LCJ_QaAhhsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&

Locking this thread as OP hasn’t posted since 6/16 and seems satisfied.