I want to remove an old "booger" on the repair list for my 1948 Chevy 1/2 ton truck. A fellow Stovebolter recently made available to me a nice working OEM door lock assembly w/ original GM key and retainer spring. I attempted to install it, thinking that it would be a simple install, but ran into frustration. I could not get the door latch and the lock assembly to work together properly to lock/unlock and remove the key. Using a screwdriver, I can get the door latch to lock from outside the door, just like it should with the spindle on the end of the (new to me) lock assembly. The door lock assembly does not have enough movement to repeat that same motion as using the screwdriver to to trip the door latch lock.
The previous PO told me in 2009 when I bought the truck that this was an issue for him when he installed an aftermarket door latch from one of the major parts vendors. He was able to get the door to lock from the inside so that a passenger could safely secure the door from popping open as the truck traveled down the road. He made the outside key function obsolete by using a “dummy” door lock assembly (minus the spindle) so that it “looked” correct from the exterior. This issue has been a "booger" at the end of my repair list that I finally have decided to now correct. I may never need to use the exterior lock/key feature, but I want it to work like it should. All door related rubber was replaced by me shortly after taking possession of the truck. Door hinge pins and springs were replaced. Striker plates are OEM. Door gaps are reasonable. Door requires a firm closing to shut. I know of no other adjustments to make. I suspect a faulty aftermarket door latch; I have little faith in the aftermarket parts. I see myself seeking out a good used OEM or NOS passenger side door latch. Does anyone have any insight on a remedy to my situation? Am I missing something simple here? Thanks in advance in helping me wipe away the booger on my repair list!
On my OEM door lock the key turns nearly 360 degrees, but the tang that goes in the latch mechanism only turns about 90 degrees. There's a lot of movement of the tang without moving the key. If it's an aftermarket lock, it may not be the right type. I have no idea if currently available locks work correctly.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I know this thread is a little old, but I was just messing with my door lock today and discovered that the tang or spindle (as fonz refers to it) can be installed in the lock assembly 90 degrees out of alignment with the key. Unfortunately, I didn't take note of the relationship with the key, so may have to fiddle with it when I go go install it in the door. There's a 90% chance I got it wrong, with Murphy's law in full effect. If anyone knows if the spade end of the tank should be aligned with the key slot or 90 degrees from it, I'd appreciate knowing the right direction.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Picked up a good used door latch from a fellow Stovebolter, as well as an NOS lockset w/ original keys for a fare price from a VCCA member. I am back in business!
