I'm stuck (literally) on trying to change the wheel cylinders for the brakes on my 1937 Chevy 1 1/2 ton truck. I've got the wheel off and took all of the inner nuts off (see attached picture), but I can't get anything to budge. I was expecting things to come apart with the nuts off, but nothing moves. This is my first attempt to change wheel cylinders on anything, so I'm sure I'm missing something obvious, but I don't know what it is. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated...
Just a note here that I have moved your post to the Driveline forum as the better place for your topic.
Am sure folks will be along soon to try and offer some help and guidance.
Best Regards,
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Doesn't it come off with the wheel bearings like most front drums? Take off that nut in the center.
Do you have a shop manual?
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Ok I will try taking the center nut off. I do have a shop manual. Unfortunately the first line of the instructions are "Jack up the car and remove wheel and brake drum." The instructions move on from there... Thanks for the suggestion.
Your description of the lack of info in the shop manual is spot on.
However, the Parts Catalog covering your '37 1-1/2 Ton provides a nice disassembled picture laying out all the parts involved (see screenshot below) which should help you find your way through this process.
The info was found on this page from the entire Chevrolet 1929-41 Master Parts Price List resource document. The name of the book kinda throws you off track as it seems to indicate just a "price list", but it actually has the full parts listings and diagrams regularly found in the later Master Parts and Accessories Catalogs.
Hope this may prove helpful?
BTW - The tip from Otto on removing the cap is correct as it allows you access for then removing the hub bearing retaining hardware, bearings and eventually the hub with brake drum from your axle.
Come back and let us know how this works.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Put the drum to hub nuts back on the studs, you don't need to remove them to take the drum off to get to the wheel cylinders. Them remove the hex cap in the center of the hub, remove the cotter pin, remove the spindle nut, remove the washer and outer bearing and then slide the drum and hub off as a unit. Note, if the shoes are rusted to the drum you may need to loosen the shoe adjustment to free it up.
Thanks for the help on the front wheels. Once I took the cap off and took the center nut off, they came off easy. Now I'm stuck on the rear dual wheels (Imagine that!). I've got the wheels off, took the center bolts out and pulled the axle out. The drum spins, but won't come off. I'm guessing there is something that I'm missing, but I'm not sure what it is. Can anyone provide some guidance?
That circular nut on the axle housing load tube behind the axle flange needs to be removed. Actually, there are two nuts, with a locking ring between them. Bend the lock ring tabs back from the outer nut and loosen it with a hammer and punch if you don't have the special wrench made to engage the slots in the nut. I make my own spanner wrenches by welding four pieces of square key stock to a piece of pipe and grind or file the key stock to get a snug fit in the slots in the nut. Then drill a hole through the pipe and use a piece of round steel bar for a tee handle. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Thanks for the instructions. I was wondering if that was a lock nut on there, but wasn't sure. I'm going to try to find someone that has a wrench or socket that will fit the lock nut. I'm afraid I'll mess it up if I try to remove it without one. I appreciate the assistance.
