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#1504197 06/08/2023 1:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 201
8
nothing beats a try but a failure
nothing beats a try but a failure
8 Offline
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 201
I block sanded up to 400 grit on my 54 cab, but at the seam were the A pillar meets the cowl I sanded thru to bare metal. I am close to painting the cab but I wanted to address this issue before I proceeded to paint. How would you move forward in respect to the metal brake thru?
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A pillar metal.jpg (112.21 KB, 64 downloads)


1955.1 3600 5 window 4 speed all original except the 410 gears.
In the Project Journal
87GN #1504198 06/08/2023 1:26 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,052
I would shoot a little more primer on that spot. Then be a bit lighter on the sanding.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
87GN #1504209 06/08/2023 3:20 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,252
Re-prime.

87GN #1504240 06/08/2023 1:44 PM
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 70
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 70
I’m currently taking a body shop class and we discussed burn through. As the other posts said, just re-prime and go easier on the sanding. For burn through it’s common practice to touch up the burn through with a rattle can if you only have a few small spots. BUT, TO GET PROPER ADHESION it must be the same manufacturer and type of primer.
For the work I’m doing on the bed steps of my ‘55, I was able to get the same Nason primer in both a quart and rattle can from our local Kemperle Inc distributor, for the situation that you’ve encountered.


1955 Chevy 2nd Series 3100 Stepside, 235cid

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