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Has anyone wired one of these up or know exactly how?
thanks!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/321113425761

Guitplayer,

This quick Battery Kill Switch install video should give you the basics for what you need.

Just a very basic short down and dirty how-to.

Dan

Everything electrical in your truck has a switch.(or two). 99.99% of the switches control the power to something. Since the whole chassis and body is the ground path. So every switch is a "breaker", inline on the power wire. So basically: power wire in on one terminal of a switch and power wire out on the other terminal of a switch. I can only think of two things where the ground is switched. Horn and maybe dome.

Same way you wire a light switch in your house.

Pick a convenient spot and cut the hot wire. Attach one end of the cut wire to one terminal and the other end of the cut wire to the other.

bartamos,

I think in this case, from reading his previous posts about faulty ignition switches, I believe he is wanting to use this in a hidden spot as a master power disconnect switch.

An on purpose ground disconnect to prevent any electrical activity unless he turns it on.

Dan

He can wire that switch to the ground wiring as well. Same method as above,

Pick any convenient spot in the circuit and cut the wire and tie the loose ends to the terminals on the switch.

I ran the negative battery cable thru the shutoff switch on my 51, 3100.

Lot's of ways to install either a "KILL" switch or a "safety" switch. You can disable the hot wire to starter or it's switch or you can shut off the whole huge negative battery cable (like Jimmy "cut the hole too big" Spagnolli did) or anything you desire. All a bunch of wasted time in the whole scheme of things and what goal is in mind. You can use steering wheel locks, hood locks, pedal locks, alarm systems.

I installed the shutoff switch for maintenance operations rather then theft prevention.

I`ll purpose another scenario.
A child gets in my truck here at the house.
Sees the switch with no key and sticks anything in there.
The truck starts in gear. Tragedy.
Another foghorn... You are built too low to the ground son, everything goes over your head.

Deleted some off-topic posts.
Please continue on topic.

Thanks, You see it not only about security but also safety.

A club won`t help that. Taking the keys out will not help that.
The switch needs to be able to be locked or disabled with a key.

Guitplayer,

Good point, definitely a good practice to shut the power off with grandkids around. My grandkids love to play in the trucks. Another added benefit is no dead battery after they leave the headlights on.

I did the same. Mine is just one of those simple screw-in knob type shutoffs on the negative battery post.

Most race car classes require a remote cut off switch mounted on the outside of the car. Also a roll over breather on fuel tank---all for fire safety.

I just need something to be safe and secure here in the garage or if
I take it to the Ace hardware or out to dinner. I can lock the doors there.
But here it is garage kept and I leave the keys in it.
Its insured for theft but Id betcha Hagerty would appreciate any and all help in this regard.

I installed just a cutoff switch on the negative side for two purposes. One in case of a electrical fire, while I was in the process of replacing faulty wiring, I could quickly kill the power due to the battery being under the mat and second as a theft deterrent. It won’t stop an educated thief but will stop a kid with a stupid idea of taking a joy ride.

Another benefit is isolating the battery during winter storage.

Nice discrete install. Looks like seat frame. Does the other end of that ground go to the chassis or a bell housing/ starter bolt?

DON'T ANSWER HIM!! IT'S A TRICK!!

It’s not a trick.

I sure don`t understand some of this.
Can somebody tell me how to use the switch I bought.
I`d like to mount in the cab under the dash. Near the existing ignition switch. If I have to bring
a large negative battery cable inside the cab, I need another route.

You can just place it inline with the ignition switch power feed. Or any power wire that prevents starter from getting power. Some of the kill switches are for the neg battery cable. You don't have to go that nuclear unless you want to. You can cut off the whole truck's neg or just the ignition power.

That style is not quite right for a hidden power disconnect switch as I describe, because it's terminals are unprotected. Exposed to shorting. The one's that attach to the neg battery won't have a shorting problem. But that is the only place to kill negative becasue the rest of the "negative" path is the whole chassis. So if you want to do a power cut off, keep that terminal protection in mind. Maybe a more simple, less robust toggle switch can be used for the power disconnect.

As you know, it's all about how you mount it securely. All the the dash switches that have power to them have terminals sticking out/unprotected. So take your clue from that and improve if you wish.

CLICK Bend up a bracket for this and hide mount it. This switch as an optional "Lock Guard" and mounting bracket.

I bought this toggle first. Ran the red battery wire form back of switch to that and
back again to switch and it did nothing. Kinda stumped.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RYGY5FY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I simply placed it in between the battery ground and the original grounding point on the frame. Details on the installation can be found here. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...-chevrolet-3100-project.html#Post1351905

Well we don't know about all the wiring on your truck. If it's all done per original diagrams or other methods, Assume a 327, some kind of harness, a "original" ignition switch. Maybe ballast resistor, maybe an ammeter and so on.
The switch has markings on the rear for the terminals:
1. ACC
2. IGN 1
3. IGN 2
4. START
5. BAT

There is a hot wire to the ignition switch BAT (B) terminal. That would be the one you would use to put the toggle on. You could also put it on the start wire. I am not exactly sure what you said. I have to be very careful to understand. It's easy to misunderstand each other during wiring assistance. So another way to say it is: Remove BAT wire from Ign switch BAT terminal and attach it to one side of toggle. Add a jumper from other side of toggle to Ign sw BAT terminal.

If that does not work, you have some screwed up wiring somewhere.

Yes, thanks I tried the BATT. It has a HEI ,could I use that?
Wiring is all good. I`ve done 3 58-59`s.

If you removed the BATT wire from the ignition switch and the truck can still start then the wiring is not all good.

If you carefully describe where each wire goes from the ignition switch, I may be able to figure out what is happening.
If you put the toggle on the HEI wire, the starter will still crank but it won't start.

Thanks so much ! I like the idea of it trying to crank but won`t

If it is in gear it will move quite aways. Back to scenarios again.

Well durn, I see your point.

Add one of these, https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Sol...hy=9023226&hvtargid=pla-442124931095 with a hidden switch. They may get it started, but it won't get very far.

I have a hidden toggle switch on my F-100. It cuts off the ignition but not the starter.

If someone tries to hotwire the truck, the starter will keep spinning but the engine won't crank.

If its gear ,it will still lurch ? More often or not while in the garage I leave
it in gear. Still fear the grandkid will crawl in there and try and start it.

If you disconnect either the ground or the positive cable, that won’t happen. A disconnect switch makes that easy. A locking one, like the one you started this thread with, is even more secure

Thanks Phil! If I could mount that first switch under the lip of the dash,
that would be the way to go. Having large battery cables inside might be a chore to deal with.
I`ll look further into it this week. The key operated used ,accessible and discreet is my 1st choice.

Remember that not all disconnect switches are created equal. Some of them only have around a 200 amp capacity or less, while others have a surge current capability of 1,000 amps or so. If you're running a 6 volt system, don't skimp on current capacity, or there might be enough voltage drop across the switch to make the engine crank slowly or have a "crank- - - -no start" situation due to low voltage at the coil. If you've got any fancy electronics like a digital clock, GPS or a high end sound system onboard, you might need to wire in a "keep alive" circuit that bypasses the disconnect and provides a constant hot and ground to that device. Otherwise, you'll erase all the pre-set information every time you switch the power off.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry , good point.

Jerry's point about a "keep alive" circuit is spot on.

But most switch ratings are for when the switch is opened under load so the contacts don't burn from arcing. Unless your starter is engaged while you're turning the battery switch off, you shouldn't have to worry a lot about switch rating. Although a switch that has terminals with a #10 screw size would probably be toasted the first time you hit the starter, engaged or not. If you use a disconnect with terminal screws at least as big as the lug on the starter, you should be fine.

Most high quality power switches have both a maximum passthrough current and a maximum switching current.

I have seen more than one person weld a switch shut doing something like this. Depending on the design, you could weld it shut, turn it "off", take the key out, and still have power through the whole system.

I don't know how much current a 6V starter pulls, but I would not be surprised if it was over 400A.