The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 55 56 57 58 59 Chevy Truck Ignition Switch

has anyone checked that has a new ignition switch and key cylinder ,not only that the key turns the switch
but any key that fits inside or screwdriver.
Evidently the side bar on the new cylinder is not coming into contact with
the new lock housing wall to stop it from turning.
I have 4 of these...all act the same. Retired master locksmith.

That seems less than ideal. Where did you get that one? I was getting ready to order one from Speedway or LMC.

I ran into that a few years ago. I got them from one of the popular venders of Chevy truck parts in this area. When I took it back they brought more of them out of stock & we tried them. Every one was like that.

George

Wrenchbender, where did you get yours?

Sent PM.

George

George, did you find a vendor that had non-defective ones eventually? If so, can you let us know where?

I would also be interested in the PM from where you got the bad one since I am planning to purchase one soon.

All were bad from different vendors.
It must be the lock housing itself. Not the key core cyl.
I have 2 old ones here that are lockable.
I`ll try one of the old key cyl. in the new lock housing today.
But I fear it is the lock. All being the same.

I have had the same issue from a local vendor. As stated most of the suppliers get them from the same source.
Wouldn't it be great to get parts that work?
I have purchased good ones from Danchuk though.
Fred

Yes, it was Classic Parts of America. I can't remember the brand name but it is on a lot of reproduction parts.
I just put the one that was on there back on. I drove it about 3 years before I realized it was like that.
This has been several years ago. They may have corrected it by now. At least a guy would think so.

George

Danchuk is the same. here are some pics I took.
It looks like the lock housing inner wall is lacking
what the originals had there for the side bar to catch.
The circle blue is where it is short/lacking.
Key also comes out in any position.

I am not sure how to rebuild/fix this. Maybe cannot be done.
Taking away metal is Ok but this needs to be added to.
The lock housing needs that pot metal there so there is pressure
on the side bar so the key will not come out.
I wonder why they made it this way.
Id use my old one but after rewiring it needs all the spades on the back
of the switch. Ign 1+2 etc.
The other one I have that is old has ign 1 2 but no spring in the housing for starting.
It is for a foot start .

It can't be fixed.

What is the problem with your original cylinder? You can probably fix that one. Metal worn away? You might be able to repair it with epoxy.

I'd try to find a used lock cylinder if I were you.

Key cylinder is fine. same as the old ones.
The lock housing itself needs undoable work.
An old lock housing might work.
Like I said the 2 I have that are old don`t have what I need with the
new wiring . thanks

Is anyone aware of a keyed switch that can be used before the ignition switch
for security?

Are you talking like a remote or hidden keyed master disconnect switch???

Something like this (not mine) perhaps? Keyed master disconnect

Lots of possible choices and suppliers to choose from.

Dan

Yes, something to regulate power to the ign . thanks!

Anyone know Seth . I`ve sent him a few emails about the switches.
I got one of the bad switches from him and wanted to let him know about them.
However I`ve not heard from him. Hoping he is OK.

Guitplayer,

Not sure who you are referring to.

Dan

He is a vendor of the ignition switches and old chevy parts. His last name was edited.
Quality Classic Parts.

Thanks for clearing that up.

Hadn't visited his web site myself before today and found he has an interesting selection of parts being offered. His FB page (linked in his web site) shows a whole lot more items available than are listed in the website "catalog" page. There is also a phone number listed on his FB page which you could use to try and reach out to him.

Hope you can find out more about the ignition switches and can maybe share with everyone as you can.

Dan

I am not on facebook, but I have his number. thanks!

The switch in my 56 Nomad failed a couple years ago, while I was driving. I remember looking all over for a replacement and surprised they were not readily available. I finally took a chance from someone on eBay that said it was rebuilt. Fortunately it worked just fine.
Harder and harder to get good parts for our classics these days!
Good luck!

Ok, all these aftermarket switches are bad. I don`t see the reason why they are made that way
other than theft in mind with the chinese.
If the key comes out in the ON position, then its a popsicle stick ignition.
Your truck/car is not safe.

Seth says he can not help me. He must have found something out he did not know.
Beware... be safe. I wish I had better news.
Most people would not know. But try a popsicle stick on your switch.
If it turns then its not safe. A rebuilt old one with a new key core would work.

OK, been talking with Mark Brewer at Mutton Hollow Chevy.
All the ones he has on the shelf will turn with any key.
It must be a chinese conspiracy.

Kingdom for whoever can manufacture the correct switches.
Key cores are fine.

My58 is the same. Screwdriver or key gets me going,

I am looking at remote security switches.
Or hidden toggle switch.
All in all ,thats not a good thing to have. In certain situations,
that could turn tragic. I guess if they want it, they will get it.
But I am not in favor of making it that easy.

How difficult is it to adapt an off the shelf ignition switch (one that actually works) to a TF truck? I'm assuming it's not straightforward otherwise we wouldn't have this discussion.

Not sure ,but after a complete rewire on both of myTF`s, it needs
all the terminals on the back of a new switch.

I concur not difficult and you should be using all the terminals for something.
Just make sure you have acc and ignition/run terminals correct for what they want.

What are you going to do about the prohblem Guitplayer?

So you have to keep the new defective switch and put a hidden cutoff switch elsewhere?

That would be the best option, I think.
Switch works, just not secure.