The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 49 huck brakes 3100

Assume short show to the front?

And how to compress pin with the spring on it that goes through shoe

Never mind

Looks like equal length linings?

Still curious about the spring pin

I just went through this a couple weeks ago on my '50. I just haven't gotten around to posting pics and descriptions.

It was a PITA but I finally figured it out and the truck stops perfectly.

Yes. Equal length shoes all the way around.

Before releasing tension of the shoes on the wheel cylinder, tie up the wheel cylinder with zip ties or wire to keep the pistons compressed and in their bores. If you don't they'll pop apart.

I used a large Channel Lock pliers to compress the springs. BE CAREFUL!!!

That spring will go flying through your garage and possibly land on the moon. Fortunately when mine took off it landed under another vehicle 40 feet away without doing any damage.

The locks on the spring will probably be destroyed in removal. Use horseshoe clips when reinstalling them.

For the big ones, I used 5/8" E clips. They are much easier and make a more positive lock in my opinion.

Here are some pics that might help.

The original style clips for the large pins are 5/8" according to Jim Carter. I reasoned that 5/8" E clips would be the correct size and they were. (a Hagerty video says15mmm) I purchased them at ACE Hardware.

I ordered the horseshoe clips from Advance Auto. They're listed under a myriad makes and models. These were from a late 70s Chevrolet truck.

I did not remove the center pin at the bottom of the brakes but instead let the pivot arms hang free.

Another thing I discovered is that it doesn't matter which side of the brake shoe pivot arms the spring goes on. The FSM shows the pins and springs on the outside with the clip on the inside of the pivot arms.

Various videos on the internet show them installed from the backside. There is no clearance issue in either case so I installed mine in the way that was most convenient and easy to do. I you remove the center link then this is a moot point but unless you're painting the parts or something, there's no real need to remove the center pin.

The guy in the Hagerty Youtube video is shown using the clip to secure the spring and using the head of the pin flat against the pivot arm. Not only did that seem to be a really stupid way to do it, it is also extremely difficult. He had to make some ridiculous tool to do it. Also, it's completely contrary to the images pictured in the FSM.

I let the pin head secure the spring (as in the FSM) and pushed it through the pivot arm assembly and secured it on the other side with the horseshoe clip.

There is a tool designed to help with compression of the spring so you can remove that pin. It is called Herbrand no. 188. Search ebay and there will be several for sale. Makes quick work of removing and replacing that pin without losing the spring.
Kent

That thing looks like some sort of 19th century dental tool.

Kent -- on mine I remember that I used a c-clamp/vice-grips combo and some sort of plate I cobbled up. Probably should have documented it .... Still could have used a third hand, though.

Otto -- Huck brakes get easier the more you do them ...

Yes, after I figured out the parking brake situation it became quite simple. Adjusting them was actually the easy part.

I still have to adjust the parking brakes though. I'll start a new thread with questions. FSM isn't entirely clear.

Actually my dentist still uses this thing

Plenty of them on eBay

I’m going to get one

Where there should have been a small pin in one location there was a 5/16 bolt

Don’t see pins available anywhere

How bad of an idea is it to use a shoulder bolt and lock nut or double nut?

Thank you all very much

All of this is helpful

That pin is probably still in low earth orbit from the last time someone worked on the brakes.

A bolt would probably work if you don't over-compress the spring. If I were you, I'd make a pin from a long shouldered bolt and either cut a groove in it for the horseshoe clip or drill a hole in it for a cotter pin and washer.

Use one of the other pins as a template to position the washer (where the groove would be) and the cotter pin hole to keep the washer in place.

There are probably people on this forum that have Huck brake parts left over from disc brake conversions. You might be able to get one.

As for the tool, I found a Channel lock pliers worked just fine to compress the spring and remove/install the horseshoe clip.

How did the previous owner secure the spring with the 5/16" bolt? Was the head of the bolt compressing the spring with a nut on the other side of the pivot arm?

I followed the method in the manual that uses a vice to hold them. It worked really well. When things do go flying , they are gone for good in my garage!

The bolt was inserted from the back with the spring against the head

But was on the outside

Looks like it was compressed correctly

Thanks guys

I’ve got the same kind of garage

When things go flying not good

Guys if you’re going to work on these buy the dental tool looking thing

15 seconds to install keeper

The rear shoe on the rear axle the spring has to be in the outside or it hits park brake lever

Where I was missing a pin used McMaster number 91259
A623 shoulder bolt and a steel not nylon lock nut worked great

Thanks again

Otto,
I just watched the video on YouTube by hagerty.
Correct me if I'm wrong
Steps
1. Remove top spring
2. Remove springs left and right side.the tapered springs with keys.
3. Remove shoes by removing outside pin both left and right.
4. Leave center pin intact do not remove unless you plan on painting the extension flat bars.
5. Reinstall shoes, re pin with horse shoe clip, side springs with key, then top spring.
Please advise.
Jim

Any info on replacing master cylinder?

Hi Cheapskate,

From memory:
0. Disconnect parking brake cable under the truck at the cross bar
1. With zip ties or wire or special tool, clamp the wheel cylinder pistons in place or they will pop off and it will be a mess to put them all back together.
2. Remove the horizontal spring which releases the tension holding the wheel cylinder together.
3. Remove the parking brake came and lever
4. Remove the two pins at the bottom but don't remove the center pin


The Hagerty guy did a lot of unnecessary things that made the job harder in my opinion. I actually watched some hillbilly dude's video to get a better idea of how to do it. He actually made the mistake of removing the center pin, realized his error, and spent a good bit of time trying to get it back together. Unless you're replacing or reconditioning everything, there is no need to take that pin out.

I used channel Lock pliers to squeeze the pin/springs and remove the horseshoe clip. No need to fabricate a special tool.

The big pivot pins are held by 5/8" clips which I replaced with 5/8" E-clips from Ace Hardware.

Assembling the pins with springs the way Hagerty dude did it makes no sense at all. Why try to balance that clip on the end of the spring? Install it with the spring under the pin head, push through the hole, and put the horsheshow clip in the slot against the side of the shoe.

Orientation of pin/spring only matters on the show that holds the parking brake lever. Spring bust be ion outside facing in to avoid clearance issues with lever.

When I replaced my master cylinder, it was no different from any other vehicle I've worked on. Being under the floorboard makes it a pain in the neck unless you have access to a lift. I did and it was easy. Make sure you check the jam nut on the MC piston arm to make sure its in the same position as the mc you removed.

1. Disconnect brake line
2. Remove cotter pin from piston arm
3. Remove mounting bolts
4. Bench bleed master before installing