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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 760
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 760
I have the seal material to make up the under hood seals that go on the inner fender, and probably other places too. The FAM shows them being stapled on. I dont have any of the staples here. I'm curious to know what you guys actually use to hold these seals in place. Is there a modern adhesive that is good to use for this purpose, or shouild I get to searching for the staples?


Mike Burns
1940 Chev 1/2 ton
1953 Chev 1/2 ton
1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe
1947 Indian Chief
1943 Indian 741
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,105
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,105
You'd need an industrial strength stapler, even if you had staples that would work. Any good weatherstrip adhesive should do the trick.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 268
3-m black weatherstrip adhesive has worked well for me in the past. John


1949 gmc 1-ton
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 785
If you absolutely wanted staples for the look, you could form some out of stainless TIG wire.

Joined: Sep 2010
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K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,324
The kit comes with staples ,If you have the original metal you could use the existing staple holes otherwise drill holes for the staple .I used stainless fishing line just because I had it on hand.


1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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A 47 (not Stovebolt) truck I have uses rivets to hold that material in place. The new seal came with split rivets to install the seals. One section I used pop rivets to re-attach the old seal.


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,105
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,105
As I recall, the only place where staples would show is the filler plates up by the firewall. The seals go on the inner fenders, and any staples would only be visible from under the wheel wells. I have some stainless steel safety wire that could be used as staples, but getting the original holes lined up is too much trouble in my book. I plan on using adhesive.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
N
'Bolter
'Bolter
N Offline
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 916
I used 0.050 stainless safety wire - poked it through the front of the seal and then twisted it together on the back where nobody can see it.worked great. Kinda looks like a staple, too…. I also used a little adhesive as well.

Last edited by Norcal Dave; 05/30/2023 3:18 AM.

~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission

Moderated by  klhansen 

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