| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,110 Posts1,056,574 Members48,448 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2018 Posts: 760 | I have the seal material to make up the under hood seals that go on the inner fender, and probably other places too. The FAM shows them being stapled on. I dont have any of the staples here. I'm curious to know what you guys actually use to hold these seals in place. Is there a modern adhesive that is good to use for this purpose, or shouild I get to searching for the staples?
Mike Burns 1940 Chev 1/2 ton 1953 Chev 1/2 ton 1950 Studebaker Starlight Coupe 1947 Indian Chief 1943 Indian 741
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,105 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,105 | You'd need an industrial strength stapler, even if you had staples that would work. Any good weatherstrip adhesive should do the trick.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: May 2016 Posts: 268 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2016 Posts: 268 | 3-m black weatherstrip adhesive has worked well for me in the past. John 1949 gmc 1-ton | | | | | Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2011 Posts: 785 | If you absolutely wanted staples for the look, you could form some out of stainless TIG wire. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,324 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2010 Posts: 2,324 | The kit comes with staples ,If you have the original metal you could use the existing staple holes otherwise drill holes for the staple .I used stainless fishing line just because I had it on hand. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 1,101 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2016 Posts: 1,101 | A 47 (not Stovebolt) truck I have uses rivets to hold that material in place. The new seal came with split rivets to install the seals. One section I used pop rivets to re-attach the old seal. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,105 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,105 | As I recall, the only place where staples would show is the filler plates up by the firewall. The seals go on the inner fenders, and any staples would only be visible from under the wheel wells. I have some stainless steel safety wire that could be used as staples, but getting the original holes lined up is too much trouble in my book. I plan on using adhesive.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | I used 0.050 stainless safety wire - poked it through the front of the seal and then twisted it together on the back where nobody can see it.worked great. Kinda looks like a staple, too…. I also used a little adhesive as well.
Last edited by Norcal Dave; 05/30/2023 3:18 AM.
~ Dave 1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission | | |
| |
| |