The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Motor ticking

Got my truck cranked. Checked all fluids and they were good and fresh. But motor has a tick. Where should I start? Also moved the truck under a shed and went in to reverse fine then when I put it in 1st it wouldn’t come back out.

Couldn't say about the transmission without looking at it, but possibly linkage out of adjustment or hanging up somehow. The ticking might be a valve out of adjustment or a faulty (collapsing or sticking) hydraulic valve lifter. If you get a long screwdriver and put the handle end up next to the bone by your ear opening and the tip at various places along the length of the valve cover you can often tell where the ticking gets worse and that will let you know which valve or lifter might be having the problem. Alternatively it could be a time bomb. An old style time bomb...I think most of the new ones use digital timers so you hear nothing but BANG at the end. Please let us know if it explodes.

What year truck and what engine?

If it has hydraulic lifters it could be that one of them has leaked down While it was sitting around. How long did you let it run after you started it?

Could even be an exhaust leak.

It ran for a while. I tried to post a video but it didn’t post on the thread.

60 with a 235

If it’s a three speed, I Agree with Jon, the shift linkage is more than likely out of adjustment. I’ve linked the section from the Shop Manual that covers the adjustment. Here’s the link.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0702.html

Stovebolt rules prevent you from uploading a video. If it’s posted on hosting site or YouTube, you can link it.

That sounds like it is relating to a valve, a valve lifter...something in the valve train, Anthony. Otherwise the engine doesn't sound too bad. If you get it started again you can also remove the valve cover (you can remove it before you start it) and then you can feel the 12 pushrods to see where the ticking might be. If it is a sticking or collapsed lifter you will feel it in the pushrod...the rod will feel loose and you should be able to "feel" the ticking. Or you can use a long screwdriver as I mentioned before as a sort of stethoscope. Thanks for posting the video!

My truck sounded like that. Found one plug was sooty; that cyl had a bent push rod. Also, some of the other valves were way out of adjustment.

I've also used a broomstick, a wood dowel rod, or a piece cut off a discarded garden hose as a field expedient stethoscope as a noise locating device. Don't forget to check the fuel pump- - - - -I've seen a couple of engines rebuilt because of a knocking noise from a noisy pump.
Jerry

I could be way off base here but my 54 235 and previous year Stovebolts are supposed to have the valves adjusted every other oil change. Could it be something as simple as needing an adjustment. I know for mine they are worn some. I adjust according to specs to get them close and then make minor adjustments to account for the extra slop from the worn lifter.

Inspect the tips of the rocker arms where they contact the valve stem. They have an annoying habit of wearing a depression in the rocker that makes it impossible to get an accurate lash adjustment. A really bad wear pattern will actually destroy a feeler gauge blade if an adjustment is attempted on a running engine.
Jerry

I've worked on a few old trucks that had 3-speed column shifts that wouldn't shift, or get stuck in gear. The motor mounts were wore out causing the engine/trans to sag. Throws linkage out of alignment.

Rick

Check the valve stuff as others have suggested. But I’d also look for an exhaust leak.

From taking my own videos, I don’t think sound translates very well. I hear two different noises in that one.

Adapt a clean shop vac to the tailpipe. Run it on reverse. Spray soapy water around the manifolds, flange, etc and look for bubbles.