The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Rebuilt 216 engine oil recommendation

I have spent 2 days reading about which oil I should use in my rebuilt 216 including this site and I still don’t think I can say I have an answer. Even on this site there are differing opinions. I am sure there may be more coming my way. It seems clear I need and oil with zinc. But synthetic or conventional and what weight? I think I have settled on Valvoline VR1 conventional 10w30. But I would like to hear your thoughts as well. I am a fair weather driver. I would say the temperature range I expect to drive in would be between 32°F and 85°F. Maybe it just comes down to the fact these engines are work horses and they can run on any oil you pour in. I look forward to reading your answers.

15W-40 or 20W-50 would be my choice, since the straight weight oil the engine was designed to run is about as scarce as a chicken with lips or an honest politician. Dino oils are also getting hard to find, so you're going to be pretty much stuck with some kind of synthetic. The "gotta have zinc" advice is also somewhat of a myth, as long as the initial run-in on the camshaft is done with a break-in additive containing the proper concentration of ZDDP. The first half hour of runtime is far more important to camshaft good health than the next several hundred.

Since the things that are most often missing in the advice you'll be given on any website, including this one, are hands-on experience and common sense, take it for what it's worth- - - - -exactly what it costs you to read it! Good luck!
Jerry

What Jerry said.
I'd use one of the 15W-40 diesel oils (DELO 400 for example) that are also API SN rated. They're readily available in dino or synthetic (go with Dino, as they're much cheaper). Throw in some ZDDP additive for the first fill, then don't worry about ZDDP.

Kevin,

I want to thank you for all of your great advice over the years. Today I finished my truck. Through all the nights I tossed and turned when thinking through the next big move, you provided a lot of great advice. Always valuable, practical, and sound. And there are more folks that I should thank. Radio questions answered, heater questions, fuel gauge questions, miscellaneous electrical. All solutions found here, or at least confirmed!

Cheers,

Darren

For what it costs to rebuild any motor these days, I wouldn't use any oil not made for older engines or any oil not designed for flat tappet engines. If you want to run oil made for diesels, thats up to you, I prefer race oils or muscle car oils. VR-1, Driven, or Lucas would be a good choice and 10-30 would be what I would run. Camshafts lobes get 90% of their oil from what the crankshaft throws at them, the thicker the oil, the less is thrown. I build Pontiac engines for local restoration guys, my oil choice is Penn Grade 30w break-in, then 10w30 Penn Grade. They have the required additive packages made for gas engines, and at $5000 - $6000 per engine, I not willing to test my luck with just any oil. The break-in oil was $59 for 6 quarts, to me thats well worth it, it hasn't failed me yet. Two years ago I built a 400, broke-in with Penn Grade, drove the car around for a couple days and delivered it. Three weeks later I get a call, engine misfiring. He brings it back, I pull the rocker covers and find damage to pushrods. With a complete tear down I find the cam went flat and took 6 lifters with it. $1000 later it back on the road. He told me he changed oil right before it messes up, he bought Wal-mart brand oil, 10-40, no additives. He had about 15 minutes drive time after the oil change before the cam went out.

My 1970 250 has 10w20 full synthetic in it.

Thats my opinion, take it as you want.

How many miles/hours should you run on the break in oil before switching over to you regular engine oil?

After the initial 15 to 20 minute break-in, you need some drive time to break-in the rings and seat the bearings. Usually 4 to 5 miles is enough and what I recommend to my customers. The rings need loaded under acceleration and deceleration. Bearings tend to take of them self. If the engine has a filter, you can always throw a new one for piece of mind after the break-in. It's tough to drain expensive oil, but that's the cost of building and running old engines.

Save the break-in oil for your lawn mowers and other crap after you drain it.

ZDDP, just think there are some older and very costly engines that a zinc additive has never been allowed in the lube oil. It is considered a huge no no to use it. The key would be a lube with very high EP properties.

Chevy Darren That VR1 10w30 sounds fine to me. I save 10 w40 break in oil from a 540 truck pull engine a friend has,let it settle out for weeks carefully pour off clean clear oil. That 540 was soap and water scrubbed as clean as we could get it. Use this for top off oil in warm weather,my biggest concern is watching out for the cam. Haven't lost a lobe in a long time,have a 30/30 cam in a 327 since about 1970 still a loper. Use zinc additive in all of them 216,235 dipper,235 insert,327,235 overbore daily driver. Otto has an OK idea there.