Looking for some help and knowledge for a new project we are tackling. Sorting through parts now and wondering about running boards. A Few questions:
What are the dimensions for running boards on 1941 chevy panel ( wb is 115)
Are running boards the same for 1/2 T & 3/4 T panel trucks 41-46? What about pickups 41-46?
This truck was obtained by my wife's grandpa in the early 80's and was mainly just left in a shed for 30 years or so. My father in law decided it was time to get this truck and a few others back on the road, unfortunately he passed away 6 years ago. So the goal is the same, just new people leading the project!
From the info on the 29-54 Master Parts Catalog it looks like the pickup running boards should be the same as the 115" WB 1/2 ton panel trucks. The AN and BN models I highlighted in the attached are the model designations for 41 3/4 ton panel and '42 3/4 ton panels, which would have a longer wheelbase than your truck.
Hope that helps.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks Kevin, that does help out. Image you attached doesn't show the dimensions on the 41-46 1/2 tons, but it does list the BK model . Isn't that a 46 1/2 ton ? Dimensions on that look to be 93 1/2. Those prices listed sure are nice though:)
I just want to test the waters to see if you know what you are in for on your project. Looking at your pictures, it looks like you have a Camaro clip front suspension. I hope this is not unwanted advice but I would put the body parts concern aside and concentrate on the clip. Make sure the frame is in good condition and that the clip job was professionally done. I've driven a clipped 1950 1/2 truck and the driving experience is similar to what you would expect from a 60's car. Nothing wrong with it but don't expect a rack and pinion feel. The parts that support the body have to be in the correct location, on the frame, in order for the body parts (hood, grille, fenders, inner fenders etc.) to fit correctly. You want the front wheels to be centered in the fender opening. If you have the wide track Camaro front suspension then you will need to run standard (not wide) front tires so that they don't rub the fenders.
If you already know all this stuff and have it well in hand then my apologies for interfering.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Thanks Kevin, that does help out. Image you attached doesn't show the dimensions on the 41-46 1/2 tons, but it does list the BK model . Isn't that a 46 1/2 ton ? Dimensions on that look to be 93 1/2. Those prices listed sure are nice though:)
Patrick, The BK is the serial number prefix for '42 Light Delivery or 1/2 ton trucks (see attached), but I don't know why the parts list shows both a 1/2 ton line and one for the others including the BK. But that line that includes the BK also includes BL and BM, which are 3/4 ton models and longer wheelbase. I wouldn't hang my hat on the 93-1/2 inch length. Yeah, those prices would be nice if they were still available. If a guy had a wayback machine, he could use it to walk into a Chevy dealer and score. But you might have to find some cash from the '50's or they might call the cops on you for counterfeiting. No credit cards either.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate any knowledge out there! Right now focus was to identify parts and see what we had for sheet metal, etc. Wasn't aware of the clip suspension so we will take note of that. If your correct about that, it wouldn't surprise me and think we had some original rat rodders in our family. Here are some more pics.
*) Verify that the VIN tag on the body and the title agree. There is no logic in spending money on this project if you cannot get a valid state title and registration. *) If the engine, transmission, front suspension and rear axle came from the same car then it would make things a lot easier. Research the serial numbers, casting numbers and stamped numbers to identify what you have. *) You should test the condition of the donor engine and transmission before you install the front end body parts. It is labor intensive to remove and reinstall the front end.
I attached a few pictures of how a clip was performed on a 1950 1/2 ton. It's not my truck but I did get to do a test drive.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Let's make sure we keep all swapping, buying and selling of parts in the proper forums. You can also contact the OP by PM and continue the discussion that way.
I wouldn't hang my hat on the 93-1/2 inch length.
But you might have to find some cash from the '50's or they might call the cops on you for counterfeiting. No credit cards either. 
