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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 89 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2011 Posts: 89 | On a 1954 3600 new 12v wiring harness, alternator, standard front lights with dual filament running light/turn signals, LED tails/brakes and LED rear turn signals
Went to take the truck out the other morning when it was still dark for a little bit. Truck fired right up, and after a quick warm up i turned the lights on and away I went. About a mile from my house on a paved road i have an option to switch to a dirt side road which i chose this morning. Upon transferring surfaces from paved to dirt I lost all my front lights- brakes/tails still worked. No one else was around and i just rolled back to the house quick and grabbed a different vehicle.
Now as I'm getting around to looking at in daylight this is what's going on: With the key on, at the first pull of the light switch i get all front and back running lights At the second pull (headlights) i get what sounds like a power drop on my fan, no headlight low beams, and my running lights stay on like they should If i push the dimmer switch for High beams both highs come on and my running lights also stay on still like they should In addition, regardless of light switch position i also do not seem to have any functioning turn signals - these are wired to dual filaments in the running lights
So my guesses/attempts Everything worked fine lights and turn signals, before i went to dirt, sounds like a power drop with the lows so im guessing i lost a ground or its ground related maybe? Checked everywhere i could think and no loose or dirty grounds, certainly nothing that looked fresh, all wires and connections seemed solid. All fuses were fine. Dimmer switch is a month old but was working fine. Seems odd both my headlight Lows would have gone out at the same time but maybe? Seems odd that all bulbs seem to be getting power so it shouldn't be a ground maybe? And why then are the Turn Signals not working? Test light shows i have power from the dimmer switch and everywhere its supposed to be when the highs are on but nothing with the lows...
Everything has been in this configuration for many months and worked just fine with no issues up til now Im stumped and open to suggestions as my electrical knowledge is fairly limited Thanks in advance Chooglin | | | | | Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 1,954 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2020 Posts: 1,954 | The headlights have been working fine months before? Are they halogen? Maybe get a separate ground wire long enough that is connected to the frame to check both lights.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,437 Moderator - The Electrical Bay | | Moderator - The Electrical Bay Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 3,437 | I'll use my "go to phrase".... check your grounds, or add grounds.
Another quality post. Real Trucks Rattle HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) | | Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 | The high beams and low beams use the same ground, so that seems unlikely.
I would be inclined to look for broken insulation on the low beam circuit. The increased electrical system load indicates that a lot of power is going somewhere. A wire just barely rubbed through will short to the body instead of lighting up the lights.
Do you have a fuse for your headlights? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,472 | If original, the fuse is in the headlight switch. A short or high amperage drawwould cause the lights to go on then off repeatedly. The switch has a bi-metalic strip that when heated up bends and opens a contact. Once cooled, which only takes a second or so, straightens back out and closes the contact completing the circuit. Thus the blinking lights.
Last edited by Phak1; 05/06/2023 12:29 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) | | Herder of Cats, Goats, and Sheep (moderator) Joined: Jan 2019 Posts: 2,242 | When the new 12V harness was put in, were the headlights put on relays? If so, maybe the low beam relay croaked.
I would unplug on of the headlights, check your resistance to ground, then check the voltage of each of the terminals with the headlight switch on and the dimmer in each position.
You could also have a problem in the dimmer. They get a lot of abuse and are not in the best postion. Meausuring the voltage at the terminals will tell you if you are getting voltage (full or reduced) there.
Either way, that will tell you where to look next. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,450 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2018 Posts: 2,450 | Chooglin I've had trouble with that bi-metal breaker on the headlight switch too. However ground to the cab that also goes thru bolted joints can bother you too. Guitplayers suggestion of a portable ground wire might tell you a lot,could ground the headlight shell that way. Used to fight ground to the tail lights a lot because of muddy roads and rust. | | |
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