I posted on a 235 Chev engine that had a cracked block. I did a rebuild on it before a fool put water in and let it freeze over winter, after the block was cracked it has sat for about 27 years in my garage. I modified an engine stand to hold the bell housing and engine and that seems to work ok. I will post pictures. I pulled the plugs about a week ago and put wd40 into the plugs. The oil was changed before it was let sit. I am assuming that the cylinder walls would not crack and let water into any cylinders. Is that a reasonable assumption? I tried to move the engine crank using a flat bar on a tooth of the flywheel but it doesn't budge. So my question is, what would be the next step? Should I try diesel in the cylinders and let it sit then use the starter to turn it over? I am worried that a ring could crack if stuck. Thanks for any suggestions.
1945 Chev Panel truck, 53 chev engine, owned since 1968
Anytime an engine stops, at least a few cylinders will have the valves open. That allows humidity to attack the cylinder walls and rings, and it won't take long to seize up the rusty cylinders. Pour several ounces of a 50/50 acetone/automatic transmission fluid mixture into each of the spark plug holes. Replace the plugs and let the engine sit for several days. Then use the chisel end of a long shepherd's crook wrecking bar on the flywheel teeth at the edge of the bellhousing to nudge the crankshaft back and forth. Last resort- - - -pull the cylinder head and use a block of hardwood and a big hammer to get the pistons moving. Most likely, the cylinders will have to be rebored if you decide to try to salvage the block. If it's cracked, why bother?
The next time you put an engine into long term storage, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, bolt a piece of plywood over the ports, and put several ounces of heavy oil into the cylinders. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I totally missed the obvious about the valves. I will try these suggestions. I think I need to pull the head and not take a chance. I will put the oil and acetone into the cylinder and work it as suggested. I posted on the cracked block but not on the seized engine I think. I just got to the point where I could safely work with the engine on the stand. I had to support the engine or so I thought at least, from the front and added stabilizing angle to the front. In a review I saw, one unfortunate person used a three legged stand and it flipped over and broke his foot. The chev engine could sever a foot I think. Thank you for the suggestions.
1945 Chev Panel truck, 53 chev engine, owned since 1968
