The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Issues with T5 swap- vibrations, etc᠁

Northcoast3800- Idid the same thing- I have a driveshaft shop about an hour away.

Ed, I so rarely have anyone to help me- but your method is the same one that I use when installing a transmission- it works great.

I began pulling the transmission apart and took some pics of the tail housing bushing. I also measured it. If my slip yoke protrudes 2.25” inside the housing, then is protrudes past the front edge of the bushing by at least 0.25”, so my fear has subsided- the yoke is probably fine, which means that the driveshaft length is fine. I may just end up installing 2 degree shims to get the pinion angle back to -0.5 degrees.

The most concerning thing i found today was the condition of the tail housing bushing- is is rough, I mean really beat up ….it looks like somebody had tried to remove it and gave up. Or did my -2.5 degree pinion angle/speed vibration cause this? Or was the vibration a result of the bushing being in such bad shape? Perhaps I will never know. To me, some of the wear marks look like they were caused by the slip yoke vibrating. See pics: Tail housing bushing

2 degree shims installed and pinion angle now reads -0.4 degrees. For the record, the leaf spring pin size on a 1950 3600 is 5/16”.

I got my new trans input shaft in the mail, but am still waiting on trans rebuild kit. Picking up rental tools today to R&R the tail shaft bushing and the crank pilot bushing.

I have decided to leave the rear leaf spring orientation where I had moved it to (I had reversed rear springs to move the axle rearward in the fender arch). I can always move the springs back to stock location later and have the driveshaft shortened to fit at that time. Right now, I’m chomping at the bit to get the truck finished and stop the money hemorrhage.

Trans gets rebuild, then she goes back in and we’ll see how everything is working.

Rear fenders are in epoxy right now, waiting on warmer weather to finish painting them. If all goes well. It’ll be driving within the next two weeks.

After I replaced the u-joints in my custom driveshaft that had less than 20 miles on it, I drove it to another driveshaft shop and had them check the balance- it was WAY off. The shop who built the driveshaft didn’t balance it properly….. after the the driveshaft was balanced and re-installed, the medium-high frequency vibration is gone. I never suspected the driveshaft could be a culprit because it was new and it was supposedly balanced by that shop who fabricated it.

The difference was profound after the driveshaft was balanced properly. The 2 degree Rear axle shims were also removed which lowered the pinion nose to its earlier position, per the new driveshaft shop’s recommendation. The driveline issues are now sorted out.

Great find, it can always be challenging when the problem is related to a part that is expected to be okay because it was either checked or new.

Glad to hear it NorCal Dave. Frustrating, but it can certainly happen.